Cuernavaca, Tepoztlán and Puebla
February 20 - March 1, 2009

Not even two weeks after I had come back from my holiday in Mexico, I received an invitation from the Mexican Government - to attend another seminar on Mexican Gastronomy - this time in the beautiful city of Puebla, south of Mexico City. This time, there would be about 70 Mexican restauranteurs living in Canada and the US attending, and the seminar would be full of practical workshops along with lectures. How could I refuse?

So, I mapped my trip back to Mexico...

CUERNAVACA
February 20-21, 2009

After a direct flight from Montreal to Mexico City (great flight with Mexicana Airlines), I boarded a luxury bus right from the airport en route to Cuernavaca, Morelos, the city of the "eternal Spring", where my cousin Geral lives with her husband and family. Geral is my cousin, daughter of my Mom's younger sister Elisa. Geral and I share the passion for cooking, so much so that this past year she started her training at culinary school in Cuernavaca, so whenever we get together out come the recipe books and many of our conversations centre around food.

I had been in Cuernavaca in my University years, and back then it was a small town, where the rich from Mexico City had their cottages and vacation homes. It has changed much in 20 years! Now there is a fast highway that takes you there in only 45 minutes from the big city, and population has greatly increased, but the town remains quaint and small, in the way that it was never designed to hold so many cars. There are traffic jams at all hours because of the narrow streets.

Geral is mother to 5 girls, so the first thing she did was drop me off at the cathedral downtown, with instructions that we would meet at the same place in two hours. She then went off to chauffeur her girls to the various activities that occupy them.
It was a late Saturday morning, and the old church was beautifully decorated with flowers - in those two hours, I saw two wedding parties come and go! I had time to people-watch, and it was great to see the Mexicans all decked out in summer finery, including the little kids!

From the cathedral, I walked over to the main plaza, where the street vendors were setting up their stalls. I immediately zoomed in on my favourite street food in Mexico: corn. This particular corn was garnished with chiles de arbol and fresh epazote. Oh, I was going to come back for some in a little while!

Walking around the plaza, I came to "la Casa de Cortés", or House of Cortes. This was Hernán Cortés' palace. You know Cortés, the much reviled conqueror of Mexico. Well, he built himself a nice place in Cuernavaca. After defeating the indians and torching the town, he destroyed the pyramid and used the stones to build his fortress on the base of the pyramid. You can imagine that did not ingratiate him to the locals! Nowadays it's the city museum where you can learn about the history of the town. I am always disappointed when I enter these old structures, because I would like to see them as they were back then, but at least it has been preserved and it is an educational place now, with a very nice bookstore right beside the main entrance.

After the museum I did not have much time to roam around before meeting Geral, but I did make my way to the food vendors. My favourite corn was waiting, and it was after noon so I did could follow my personal rule - no snack foods before lunch! As you may know, the corn in Mexico is different than in the States or Canada. The biggest difference is that it is NOT sweet. The kernels are bigger, pale cream in colour, but mainly, the taste of corn is more starchy than sweet, lending itself more to savoury applications. The corn is served off the cob in a glass, with a generous squeeze of lime, mayonnaise, aged fresh cheese and a good sprinkling of powdered chile. In southern Mexico, this is called "esquites", and it may not sound good to you, but if you see this in your travels, please give it a try, it is so good!

After enjoying my corn and taking my fill of photographs, I made my way back to the church to meet my cousin. The girls were tired after their soccer game, so we decided to head back home, but not before stopping at the best "taquería" in town for a delicious lunch! I was in heaven. Sitting around the table with Geral and my 5 nieces was a treat, and seeing them eat was a revelation! How could little girls eat so much? When you go to a taquería in Mexico it's easy to lose track of how many you have eaten, since you order as you eat, but I did count how many tacos my little 8 year-old niece Amalia ate! 8! And these were generously served, and garnished at the table with the mandatory onions, cilantro, limes and assorted salsas. We had "tacos de trompo" - adobo marinated pork cooked on a spit, shawarma style, and then shaved thinly, put on a tortilla and topped with roasted pineapple, also from the spit. These are my favourite. We also had the biggest quesadillas I've seen, made with large corn tortillas made right there - these were filled with "cecina", a thinly sliced beef and cheese, and garnished with cream and aged cheese.

After that meal we were a bit tired, so we headed home to have a "siesta" and then plan our next day out.

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TEPOZTLAN - Pueblo Mágico
Sunday, Feb 22, 2009

We got up early to get ready to go and left the girls and my cousin Enrique behind, headed for the town of Tepoztlán, about 25 minutes drive east from Cuernavaca. In 2002, the town became one of the 29 "magical villages" of Mexico, where the main attraction is found in the enchanting beauty of their architecture, gastronomy and colorful traditional fiestas full of music are still conserved.

We knew it was Carnaval in Tepoztlán, so we wanted to beat the rush of tourists. We arrived before 8 am and found ample parking on one of the steep cobblestoned streets. The town was still sleeping, so like good Catholic Mexicans, we made our way to the church. The 16th century Church of the Nativity is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, along with the adjacent monastery. Mass was just about to start, so we stayed and attended the ceremony. There is a special feeling when you are in such an old building, knowing people just like us have done the same thing at the same place for centuries.

After mass, we made our way out of the church courtyard. At the gate of the church, there is an amazing archway mural depicting the history of the town. Legend says that Quezalcóatl, the plumed serpent God of the Aztecs was born here 1,200 years ago. The archway is made entirely of seeds and grains in all colours, and is a detailed pictorial message uniting aspects of the pre-Hispanic, Christian, ancient, and modern culture of Tepoztlan's people..

The place was set up for the carnival, full of mechanical games and vendors, but we made our way straight to the market. You know I have a fascination with markets, but this one was something else. I took so many pictures - the colours, the sounds, the AROMAS! There were many stalls selling food and they were just setting up, so everything looked pretty enough to photograph. After walking the whole length of the market, we bought a freshly squeezed mandarin juice and proceeded to find the stall with the most customers - that's always a sure sign of good food.

We squeezed our way in and sat on a narrow bench. We wanted to order one of everything! My cousin said: "if we do not finish everything we can take it home". Yeah, right! The first thing that came out was a "tlacoyo de setas en maíz azul", which is shaped like a torpedo, made of blue corn dough, filled with sautéed wild mushrooms, cooked on the griddle and served garnished with cream and grated aged cheese. We split it in half and proceeded to devour it. Next came an "itacate", made of yellow corn dough and filled with a paste of black beans. This one was shaped like a triangle and was also cooked on the griddle, and garnished the same way as the tlacoyo. It melted in the mouth. Next came a "tlacoyo de habas en maíz azul", the torpedo shaped, blue corn tlacoyo filled with fava bean paste, garnished the same way. Heaven. Then came a "tlacoyo de flor de calabaza en maíz azul" - you get the picture - blue corn tlacoyo with sautéed zucchini blossoms. All of them topped at the table with the green or red salsas, or the fiery peanut chile salsa, which I'd never come across in any market.

At this point we looked at each other and could not believe we had eaten all that. These were not your little taquitos as they are served in much of Mexico - these were large and healthy portions. Our excuse was that we ate all of them in the name of research. We had to stop there, though, so we sadly paid for our food and wandered off to walk off our lunch.

Tepoztlán is something of a Mecca for new-agers who believe the place has a creative energy, and has a reputation of being a mystical and magical place - the locals even say UFO's are seen in the area! The "Tepozteco" is the pyramid built atop the mountain and the climb there is a popular activity for tourists and locals alike. The town is a major Náhuatl centre and also retains indigenous traditions, with some elders still speaking Náhuatl and younger generations learning it in school, making it quite unlike most of the other towns ringing the Mexican capital. There are many good restaurants and a famous cooking school called "La Villa Bonita" in the town, in case you want to pursue your culinary skills.

As we walked along the food and arts and craft stalls, we could hear brass band music far away. We so desperately wanted to see the famous "Chinelos", the costumed dancers typical of the carnival. Legend says the original "chinelos" were students who dressed up in old clothes and started to dance and shout making fun of the Spaniards during carnival. That custom slowly evolved, with costumes becoming more elaborate until they became what we know now as the "brinco del Chinelo", or dance of the chinelo. Unfortunately for us, the chinelos were not going to come out until 4pm, and by then we would be gone, since I had to take a bus to Puebla that same afternoon.

Well, to make up for the disappointment of not seeing the Chinelos, we made our way to the "Tepoznieves", the most famous ice cream parlours in the town. They have literally over a hundred flavours of poetically named home made ice creams. Since they are so different to anything you may have every tried, they give you samples of each one. By the time you're through sampling you don't feel like ordering, but not to be rude I ordered the "petalo de rosa" ice cream with rose petals and pine nuts - delicious! A perfect ending to a perfect day in Tepoztlán...

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PUEBLA DE LOS ANGELES
February 22 - March 1, 2009

After a sad goodbye, I boarded yet another luxury bus, this time heading east to the city of Puebla, where my seminar would start the next day. Three hours later I arrived at my hotel to start my great adventure in Pueblan gastronomy and history.

This was my second time attending one of these gastronomic seminars. This one was better than the first one because we would be having more of a hands-on approach to the recipes and food, as well as the meeting with producers and distributors of ingredients that we could then import into the U.S. or Canada.

After the official opening ceremonies with local Government officials, we were given our schedule and itinerary. Thus began a jam-packed 5 days of learning, food, spirits, history and fun.

Puebla de los Angeles, also known as "Angelopolis", was founded officially in the year of 1531. The city was the main route between Veracruz and Mexico City. Over the span of 4 centuries, Puebla flourished and became an important economic and cultural site. It was at the centre of many insurgent rebellions, the most famous of which is the 5 de Mayo battle: on May 5th, 1862, defending Mexican forces under General Ignacio Zaragoza defeated the French army under Count de Lorencez, (the French army was considered to be the most powerful in the world at the time). The city’s name was changed to Puebla de Zaragoza in 1862, by a decree issued by then President Benito Juárez, and the national holiday “5 de Mayo” was created. This is a major annual event here, as well as in many cities across the US.

The city has a history of Catholic devotion, which is readily apparent by the number of churches there are. It is said they have a church for every day of the year - that being at least 365 churches in one city! The cathedral is a wonder to be seen - oppulent and majestic. The whole historic downtown area is beautifully built, and in 1987 was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO.

In terms of culinary history, Puebla is not to be underestimated. There was a fusion of ingredients that happened over time thanks to all the immigrants as well as military occupation the city suffered. The food of Puebla is a mixture of Indian tradition and ingredients and foreign foods and techniques, making it very complex and unique.

As in many of our Mexican cities, the good Catholic sisters played a role in the creation of national dishes. This is the story of our famous "Mole Poblano", believed to have been created by the nuns in the Convento de Santa Rosa de Lima after the news of the impending visit of the archbishop. They had no notice of his visit and were not prepared, so they threw whatever they had together - chiles, nuts, fruit, spices, old bread and chocolate and made a sauce to be poured over the turkey running around in the back yard. It was a big success with the holy visitor and thus a dish was born.

The other famous dish is the Chiles en Nogada (stuffed poblano chiles topped with walnut sauce), created by three sisters to serve to General Agustin de Iturbide in one of his visits to town. This dish represents the colours of our flag, with the green of the chile, the white of the walnut sauce and the red of the pomegranate seeds, which pleased Iturbide immensely.

I could go on and on about the food of Puebla, but I must get back to the seminar. We were extremely fortunate to spend a couple of days in the kitchen of the Convento de Santa Rosa de Lima, the famous site of the creation of the Mole Poblano - alas, we were not allowed to cook there, but in such an awesome venue we attened lectures ranging from Gastronomy, Culture and Identity Factor, Convent life and Gastronomy in the 17th, 18th and 19th centuries, Slow Food in Mexico, the Food of Prehispanic Mexico, the new Mexican Cusine in the USA, as well as the Current Trends and Future of Organic and Sustainable Farming in Mexico, along with numerous practical workshops on the famous foods of Puebla, like El Mole Poblano, Salsas and Antojitos, El Ixtlimolli, El Cafe Mexicano, La Carne Asada y sus Guarniciones, Los Pepianes, Los Dulces Poblanos, Los Mixiotes, Los Chiles en Nogada, El Pollo y el Cuitlacoche, Los Tamales, Atoles y el Champurrado y El Mancha Manteles.

All these lectures were followed by delicious lunches and dinners, all featuring local ingredients, presented by their creators and washed down with the best beers, mezcales, tequilas and fruit waters. Some of the most memorable dishes were the "Sopa de elote, flor de calabaza y chapulines" (corn, zucchini blossom and grasshopper soup), "Ixtlimolli de Pollo" (mole made of a special red chile served with a local variety of black beans and tamales), "Chalupas Poblanas" (local street food of fried tortillas with salsa) and "Dulces Poblanos" (basket of local home made sweets).

Overall, the experience was fabulous - the camaraderie of the group brought together for a similar purpose; the food and the sharing of our culture with historians, lecturers and cooks cannot be beat. Most importantly, the hospitality of our Pueblan friends was incredible. I will remember Puebla fondly and cannot wait to go back!

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Mérida La Blanca
December 29, 2008 - January 4, 2009

As a last minute thing, we were fortunate enough to have the chance to go to Mexico to spend the Christmas and New Year's holidays. It had been about 10 years since my daughters and I spent a December in Mexico, so this was going to be extra special. We spent a very cozy Christmas Eve with my father, my sister Pilar and some of our close friends, and a few days after that, we boarded a Vivaerobus plane to the Yucatecan city of Mérida.

As usual, we had to choose our lodgings from the Internet, and this time we found Casa Alvarez. We booked it because we were late and there was no vacancy anywhere, our holiday being over the New Year. Casa Alvarez was very clean, the owners very friendly and accomodating, but we found it a bit pricey for what the place offered. The good thing is that it was very close to the heart of downtown and it was quiet.

We arrived on a Monday morning, and there is no feeling quite like when they open the airplane door and you step off the aircraft to feel that balmy air and the sun on your face. It was 9 am and it was already warm - what a treat after coming from the cold Canadian winter!

After settling in to our room, we changed to cooler clothes and set out to explore. Our first stop was the "zócalo", or the main square, where we found the tourist information office. After giving us the usual speech about the best things to see in and around Mérida, they gave us a copy of "Yucatán Today" (with a great website by the same name), a map of the city, and told us that same evening, there was a "Vaquería" a traditional dance show right there, on the street, in front of City Hall. In fact, there are shows every night. This is something I have not encountered before in my travels in Mexico - quality shows, FREE for the public, every single night, and on Sunday they close the streets around the main square and restaurants bring out tables onto the street and bands are set up in every block, so you can eat outside and listen to all kinds of music. It's really cool.

The city of Mérida was founded in 1542. It is called "the white" because it is so clean. Despite being a fair sized city, the people are very friendly, and walking around the town, you feel very safe.The main things to see in the city are the cathedral, claiming to be the first one built in Latin America, the Museo Macay, modern art museum, the "Paseo de Montejo" a boulevard built in the style of the Champs Elysées in Paris, the "Museo de Antropología", the anthropology museum housed in the "Palacio Cantón" - a beautiful French-style mansion that used to belong to an ex-Governor of Yucatán - and various other churches and parks. There are quite a few restaurants and shops around the main square, selling jewellery, arts and crafts, and the famous "guayaberas", which are the traditional cotton shirts from the area (people from Mérida argue that the Cubans stole the design and vice-versa).

The Mercado Lucas de Galvez was a disappointment for us - lacking the picturesque organization other markets have. This one seemed to have everything mixed up, from shoes, to jewellery, to fruits, to vegetables, to meats and spices. It was not as nice or clean as other markets I've seen. Despite that, we found the "recados" we were looking for, as well as "pepita molida", plus the friendly shopkeepers gave us recipes on how to use the achiote pastes and ground pumpkin seeds in the typical mayan dishes. Aside from the recipes, we got tips on places to go eat, where the locals go, so we were happy with the outcome of our excursion.

The food was very good - we like to try market and street food, as well as restaurants. We particularly enjoyed the food at the small Mercado Santa Lucia, where our young waiter never stopped flirting with my daughter Alexa. The "Panuchos" (soft-fried tortillas topped with shredded meat) and "Sopa de Lima" (lime soup) were outstanding. For dessert, we had coconut ice cream and "Marquesitas" - giant crepes filled with Nutella and Edam cheese - made on a cart in the park. Another night we had tacos at "El Fogoncito", a chain of restaurants in Mexico, where you can get the best "Tacos al Pastor" - marinated pork cooked on a spit shawarma-style. In the Pasaje Picheta, an indoor "mall" beside the Tourist Information office, we had very good "Panuchos", "Cochinita Pibil" (pork in sour orange and anatto seed paste), and the famous "Queso Relleno" (hollowed out Gouda cheese stuffed with a meat mixture, swimming in a savoury broth).

When you walk around the main square at night, you can practically have a meal from all the offerings of the street vendors - a must for my daughter Julia and I are "Esquites", which are corn off the cob, served in a cup with a dollop of mayonnaise, fresh cheese and powdered chile, with a good squeeze of lime juice and salt - just thinking about it while I write this makes my mouth water! You can also find roasted peanuts and pumpkin seeds, any number of fried snacks with hot salsa, as well as french fries, roasted sweet potatoes and plantains with cream.

The other must-go place is "Heladería Y Sorbetería Colón". Founded in 1907, it has the best ice creams and sorbets in Mérida. The ice cream parlour is right by the Pasaje Picheta, facing the main square, and you can sit down and people-watch under the arches while you enjoy your ice cream. I had the best canaloupe ice I've ever had, while Alexa tried Mexican chocolate, Julia had coconut, and my sister Pilar had passion fruit. All were equally delicious.

On the last day we were there, we went to "Botanería Eladio's", the place recommended to us by our friends at the market. This is a place that serves you continuous food, as long as you keep ordering drinks. There were two live bands that kept the place hopping. Note that you have to go there for lunch - it is dead at dinner time - so plan to go after 2pm and you will be there for 3-4 hours, at least! The food was good and bad: on the good list was the ceviche (citrus marinated seafood), panuchos, ibes con tomate (local white beans with tomato sauce), sikil-pak (pico de gallo with powdered pumpkin seed), papadzules (hard boiled egg filled tortillas topped with pumkin seed sauce) and botana callejera (jicama, cucumber, carrot and mandarines with a squeeze of lime juice and a sprinkling of powdered chili). On the bad list was spaghetti, weiners with salsa and Lebanese-style "kibi', served with some sort of mayonnaise. Overall, we had a great time and the bill was very reasonable, considering the amount of food (and drink) that made it to our table.

Mérida is a nice place to visit, to relax while walking around (in a very busy downtown) and visiting little shops. You can see the city in a couple of days, and then head out to the day trips around the area. There is lots to do. We went to three destinations, out of the many available: Chichen Itzá, Celestún and Hacienda Sotuta de Peón. Keep reading and we'll tell you about it.

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Celestún, Flamingo paradise
December 31, 2008

About an hour and a half bus ride north west of Mérida, lies the sleepy town of Celestún. As a town, there is nothing terribly exciting about Celestún - it's just a little fishing village that increases in population during the octopus fishing season. The main attraction is the pink-feathered bird called "Flamenco" in Spanish.

The town boasts the "Parque Natural del Flamenco Mexicano" or Ria Celestun Biosphere Reserve, a reserve that is the winter home to vast flocks of flamingos, as well as many herons and other bird species. This park was declared "Patrimonio de la Humanidad", or heritage of humanity by the United Nations in 1986, and it is very important because it is one of the few places in the world where the pink flamingo nests and breeds. Celestun's ecosystem is unique because of a combination of fresh water from the estuary and salt water from Gulf of Mexico. Celestun's flamingos are the pinkest in the world due to high concentration of carotene in the water and the shrimp they eat. You can also see two types of pelicans - large white Canadian and smaller gray Mexican ones. It is also a hatching ground for endangered sea turtles.

If you are the adventurous kind, you can go to the main beach and from there hire a boat to take you on the "paseo" or tour to see the flamingos. As I've said before, these boats are not to the north American standards, not having a single life vest on sight. The nice thing about this ride is that it is considerably longer than if you take it from within the park.

The boatman would probably not speak any English, so you can hone your Spanish skills on him - he will explain where any particular bird nests and breeds, and he will point these details out while he calmly scoops water out from the floor of the boat as if nothing is happening.

The tour takes us to see the "bosque petrificado" or petrified forest, which is a strangely beautiful circular area close to the mouth of the Ría. The trees are petrified, and their trunks are totally under water. It would be a perfect setting for a spooky movie.

From there, we continue our tour and we see a pink mass on the horizon as we approach "Isla de los Pájaros", where we get as close as possible to the flamingos. The best time of year to see them is from March to August, but even in December we saw large groups of the birds, seemingly floating on water, when in reality they are standing on sand 5-10 cm deep. It is good to have a powerful zoom in your camera, since we cannot get too close to them.

We then move up the "Ria" to enter a mangrove glade. We are not allowed to leave the boat, but there are plenty of opportunities to take pictures. We exit the glade and head back down on the direction of the Gulf of Mexico, where the last stop is the "Ojo de Agua", or natural water spring. The boat stops and we get off to stretch our legs. You can swim in the crystalline water to refresh yourself and when you get out, the Peanut Man is waiting to tempt you with his snacks - peanuts and pumpkin seeds, freshly roasted. You can squeeze lime juice and sprinkle chli powder over them. We found out the hard way the innocent looking chile was no other than Yucatan's own habanero chile. Those were the hottest peanuts we have ever had!

After a long ride back with no water to drink to cool our burning mouths off, we get back to the main beach. By this time we are absolutely starving and we head out to seek the perfect meal. There are a few places along the beach, and if you go by how many customers each place has, they all seem equally good. We settle for a beach restaurant not far from where the jewllery vendors are, near the street by which we had originally arrived.

The meal did not disappoint. After the cool refried beans we were served (and by this I mean cold - we were informed they eat them like that there) to snack on, we had the best Ceviche I have ever eaten. Shrimp, conch, octopus and crab laced with lime juice and sprinkled with chopped onions, chiles and tomatoes tasted fresh out of the sea. We also had an assortment of fish and shrimp with recado - Yucatán style, with lots of sour orange juice, that was at once tangy and sweet. Everything washed down with an ice-cold beer. An immensely satisfying end to a beautiful day in Celestún.

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Chichén Itzá - Wonder of the New World
January 1, 2009

For the first day of the New Year, we planned a trip to the Mayan ruins of Chichén Itzá. After an early and hasty breakfast, we rushed to the bus station, hoping to catch the first bus to the site. Once we got there, we were told the tickets were sold out, so we were directed to the second-class bus station. Images of chickens and multiple stops immediately came to mind, but there was no other way, so we headed to the secondary bus station.

We managed to get tickets on the bus leaving within the next 30 minutes, so we sat down to wait near the gate. Looking around, it was not too bad, and once we boarded the bus, my fears were appeased - no chickens or goats in sight - and we had comfortable seats and air conditioning for the two and a half hour ride to Chichén.

Once we arrived on the site, my first impression was that of a museum, since they drop you off at the parking lot and you have to go through the shops and then the ticket gates. The weather was beautiful and sunny, and by the time we arrived it was almost noon, so we were already hot by the time we started to walk the site.

The first structure we saw was the Castle. Our first glimpse of the “Castillo de Kukulkán” (or Quetzalcoatl, the plumed serpent) took our breath away. The scene was picture-perfect, with puffy white clouds dotting a beautiful blue sky.  If I were to remove all the tourists, I could almost see it the way it once was.

Chichén Itzá is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and was recently named a Wonder of the New World – for the pyramid of Kukulkán, and since that happened, they corded off the stairs so no one could climb the pyramids anymore. Two sides of the pyramid have been restored and as with many pyramids in Mexico, it has the serpent’s head at the bottom of each set of stairs. During the Spring and Fall equinoxes, light moves a certain way as the sun moves across the sky and makes an effect as if the snake were slithering down the stairs. I have seen that in other sites and it’s pretty amazing!

If you don’t have the chance (or patience to fight crowds) to go to Chichén during the actual equinox, you can see the light and sound show every evening at dusk. It’s a very nice representation and worth every penny.

The site is pretty extensive, and it is a good idea to bring lots of water, because with not much shade and in that heat, you can become dehydrated if you’re not careful. From the castle, we made our way to the Temple of a Warriors and the Group of a Thousand Columns, with stops at The Market and the Steam Bath.

Around the area of the Steam Bath, we crossed a treed area where we got some relief from the sun. It was interesting to note there were carved stones dotting the ground, were we could actually sit. I guess that only happens in Mexico!

Making our way back we went to another impressive part of Chichén – the ball court. This is the largest one in ancient Mesoamerica, measuring 166 x 68 metres, with 12 metre high walls. The rings for the ball are 9 metres high. I cannot even imagine how the warriors could play in that court!

Going away from the ball court, we made our way down the “sacbe” or white road, 270 metres lined with vendors of all kinds of arts and crafts. This road leads to the “Cenote Sagrado”, the sacred sink hole, which is 60 metres in diameter, with sheer cliff walls dropping 27 metres to the water level. The cenote was a place of pilgrimage for the Maya, and a place to perform human sacrifices in times of drought.

At the cenote, there is a small shop where you can buy a popsicle or a drink, along with postcards or informational material on Chichén and the area, and a good place to rest for a bit in the shade before making your way back to the main complex.

The last major structure we visited was the “Caracol”, or the observatory. It has a different shape than most pyramids, being circular, so it is believed it was a place to observe the skies.

By the time we walked all around Chichén (and we did not see it all), we were totally exhausted – the heat does that to you. We dragged ourselves back to the entrance where we bought yet another drink and sat down to wait for our bus. There are some interesting booths of arts and crafts, if you want to spend the money. Prices are a bit higher than in the city, of course, but you can practice your haggling skills and you may come out with a bargain indeed.

We found most of the vendors very friendly and willing to tell stories about the Mayan customs and beliefs, so it was a good way to kill time waiting for our ride home.

Our ride back was a bit worse than our ride there. This time around the bus DID stop every time it could, and by the time we reached Mérida, the whole aisle was full of people standing. It was a relief to get out of the bus and make it back to our lodgings, even if we were tired from walking all day.

On the whole, this particular day trip was worth our time and effort, and a very good way to start the New Year!

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Hacienda Sotuta de Peón
January 2, 2009

Thirty minutes south of Mérida is the Hacienda Sotuta de Peón, a former henequén plantation which has been restored and opened up to the public as a living museum. Henequén, or Sisal, is what put Mérida on the map in the 1850's and what made millionaires out of many land owners of that time. The product called sisal was made from the fibres of the henequén plant, which was (and still is) planted throughout the Yucatán Peninsula. The industry crumbled after about 100 years due to the invention of synthetic fibre, leaving many haciendas in ruin.

Henequén is related to the agave plant (from which Tequila is made). It was - and still is - harvested widely in Yucatán, and around 1850 it was called "Green Gold", because it made many landowners very, very rich. These barons, owners of hundreds of hectares of land called "Haciendas", grew henequén and produced and exported sisal fibre. These haciendas were like towns on their own - they had their own schools, and their own currency, and the workers were little better than slaves. Their wages were meager and since they were paid in the hacienda's currency, they had to spend it right there, making the barons richer and richer.

Out of the hundreds of haciendas that existed, only 5 survive today. Two of them belong to the government and three of them have been renovated to be re-invented as luxury hotels, or, in the case of Sotuta de Peón, a living museum. Sotuta produces enough henequén to supply the artisanal community of Mérida, while at the same time it educates tourists on the history of this important product for Yucatán.

We were picked up right at Casa Alvarez, and about 30 minutes later we arrived at the hacienda. The main house is beautiful, with high ceilings and lots of windows and doors. Interestingly enough, there is only one bedroom in the house, and our tour guide explained the house was only the country house to the baron, his place of business, so the family did not live there. They only went there to entertain guests. The house is more like a play house - with billiards, card tables and swimming pool - the perfect place to party.

The tour takes you through the process of henequén production, showing you how the centuries old thresher breaks down the leaves of the plant to leave a stringy fibre that has to be laid out in the sun to dry. From there it can be packed into bales or taken to the roping machines to be converted to rope.

From the roping machines, we took a "truc", or mule-drawn trolley that took us for a ride down the henequén fields to visit Don Antonio, an old Mayan man who explained to us many things about the Mayan house, utensils and customs. All was said in Mayan and translated by our guide. Don Antonio also showed us how to plant a young henequén and showed us how and when its leaves are harvested.

After Don Antonio's blessing in Mayan: "Yombutik" - which means "thank you and bless your family" - we boarded our truc again, this time headed for the "Cenote". Cenotes are caves and rivers, which connect much of Yucatán underground. The Mayas used them as ceremonial grounds, and many of them are open, while others are partially covered and many more are totally underground. The cenote in Sotuta de Peón is not too big, but it is beautiful. You descend steep steps into a dimly lit cave. Bats fly around overhead while you swim in the cool waters. Snorkel masks are provided so you can see underwater. It is a very surreal experience.

From the cenote, we head back to the hacienda, and this time, we make it straight to the restaurant. Under a high thatched roof, a buffet table is set with Yucatecan food, like Sopa de Lima (lime soup), Cochinita Pibil, Longaniza (smoked sausage), Frijoles colados (strained beans) and Arroz a la mexicana, along with hand-patted tortillas made right there by a native woman.

After our delicious lunch, we were free to visit the house at our leisure and take lots of pictures. We made our way slowly to the gift shop, where you can find every henequén application imaginable: shoes, hats, mats, purses, toys, decorations, etc., etc., all reasonably priced.

After that, we made it back to our hotel. An amazing experience, one that I was very happy to share with my family. I would go back in a flash!

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Puerto Vallarta on a budget (Puerto Vallarta, Yelapa and Sayulita)
July, 2007

This holiday was for my daughters. After a 5-year absence from Mexico, I wanted to show my girls the “real” Mexico. Now that they are a bit older to appreciate and remember, I needed to show them the way I like to explore my country.

My sister Pilar and I went on the search for the place to go, the way to get there and the place to stay. With the wonders of internet, we were both able to search – Pilar in Mexico and myself in Canada. After lots of investigation, we came up with the perfect spot for the girls to have fun – Puerto Vallarta. The city remains thoroughly Mexican, just what I wanted my girls to experience.

We found a cheap airline (to fly from Monterrey to Vallarta) and a reasonable hotel. If you’re flying within Mexico, there are new “budget” airlines that fly to a handful of major destinations from the biggest cities, so we flew with Vivaerobus for $1,800 MXP (aprox. $180 CAD) per person.

We booked a small “posada” (inn), after looking at dozens on the internet.  Posada Don Miguel fit our budget – only $500 MXP per night, and it had a kitchen, air conditioning and pool. When we arrived after midnight on our first day, we did not have time to complain too much about the condition of the room (it seemed that we arrived as the doors were closing and the clerk did not look too thrilled to have customers at that late hour). Well, it turned out that photography can do wonders, and to choose a hotel just from the website with lovely pictures may not always be a good thing. The beds were full of dirt, the washroom had not been cleaned and the dishes in the kitchen were dirty.  I do not mind staying in humble accommodations (and believe me, I’ve stayed in some in which the view and the friendly owners were the only good things), but they have to be clean.

The first order of the day, after a good breakfast, was to go in search of a new hotel.  We found a small one – Hotel Posada de Roger, (www.hotelposadaderoger.com) a very clean 3 star hotel with pool, air conditioning, TV, and a community kitchen on the 4^th floor. Posada de Roger is on Basilio Badillo, right in the heart of the “Zona romántica”, in the old part of town. This area, south of the Río Cuale, is full of bars and restaurants, as well as great finds for the shopaholic.

After our frantic and un-planned check-out of Posada Don Miguel and check-in at Posada de Roger, we were ready for a dip in the pool. June to September are the rainy months in Puerto Vallarta, and even though they had not had too much rain, the relative humidity, along with the high temperatures were enough to make you wilt. In the pool we met a fellow Canadian who gave us directions to the grocery store. The funny thing about Vallarta is that no one - not even the locals - know the names of the streets. They give you directions by saying: “two blocks up and then three blocks to the left”, or something like that. Don’t let that bother you... go with the flow.

A big part of going on a budget holiday is having a kitchen available. We were a bit disappointed we did not have one in our room in the new hotel, but having one available on the top floor was not too bad. And it was kind of neat, because it was an outdoor kitchen. A small 4 burner stove and fridge were available as well as your basic appliances and cookware. Two large tables set in an open dining room with a lovely view of the mountains completed the set-up.  On our shopping list: lots and lots of water, drinkable yogurts (there are many brands and flavours available in Mexico – much more than in Canada), milk, peach nectar and orange juice, coffee, cereal, “queso de Oaxaca” (a type of melting cheese), “queso fresco” (fresh cheese), “chorizo” (Mexican sausage), canned refried beans,  canned “chilorio” (pork and dried chile mixture), corn and flour tortillas,  “tostadas” (crispy flat tortillas), “sopes” (ready made corn boats), bottled salsa, fresh tomatoes, onions, oranges, tunas, pineapples and mangos. The girls, after being dragged to the grocery store by their mother, demanded that we get at least a couple of bags of chips and a box of Oreos.

Our idea from the beginning was to make one or two meals in the hotel and eat out only once a day in a restaurant. Breakfast for sure in the outdoor kitchen – espresso with warm milk (café latte), drinkable yogurt and fresh sweet bread from the bakery just across the street. Sometimes we did not eat lunch due to the heat – it takes away your appetite – you just want to drink and drink – which takes us to the Oxxo just down the street (Ottawa’s equivalent to Mac’s), where you can buy your ice-cold beer and pop, and you can settle down by the pool snacking on chile-spiked oranges and pineapple.

Once we were settled with the basics, we set off to explore. Playa los Muertos is the most popular beach in the downtown area, but since it was the rainy season, the ocean seemed a bit dirty – everything gets washed up, and the water coming down from the Río Cuale also mixes things up. Lots of algae on the beach and what the locals called “red water” (since the ocean is female, it bleeds, they said), along with high levels of bacteria made me almost prefer to swim in the pool instead. But nothing beats a good walk on the beach, especially at sundown.

Walking along the beachfront towards downtown eventually brings you to the “Malecón”, Puerto Vallarta’s version of the boardwalk. Dotted with original sculptures, it spans a couple kilometers, lined with lots of shops, restaurants, bars and clubs. When you walk the malecón at night, you hear all kinds of music coming from the different establishments, and we always ended up in front of “La Bodeguita del Medio” - the favourite place of Ernest Hemingway - a Cuban restaurant bar that has a live Cuban band playing salsa until 4 every night (or I should say morning) – and which, by the way, is famous for its Mojitos – and they were good Mojitos, we drank a few!

The Malecón is also the venue for all kinds of other entertainment. During our stay, we saw the group Arcano – a brother-and-sister duo playing the piano and violin – quite famous in Mexico; clowns, Peruvian musicians, the famous “Voladores de Papantla” performing their flying descent from a 100-foot pole; and then there is the food near the plaza in front of the church: a great selection of “aguas frescas”, our version of the fruit cooler – there was tamarind, hibiscus, rice, orange, lemonade, and the famous “Agua de Tuba” made of fermented coconut, poured right out of a gourd and garnished with chopped apple and pecan - very refreshing on those hot humid nights. Roasted corn, on or off the cob, garnished with cream, fresh cheese and powdered chili (my favourite). Fruits in a cup (watermelon, mango, pineapple, alongside cucumber, carrot and jícama) and mangos on a stick, all liberally dusted with powdered chile and a sprinkle of lime. A crèpe-making cart, just like the ones I’d seen in France seemed a bit out of place, but locals and tourists alike were lined up for a taste of the paper thin cakes topped with fruit preserves, whipped cream and pecans. There were other kinds of food that we did not sample but looked at with interest: fried plantains with cream, and fried cocktail wieners wrapped in bacon.

Puerto Vallarta is considered an epicurean destination and every November you can attend the “Festival Gourmet”. This year marks the 13^th annual event, and there are guest chefs as well as local chefs participating from Nov 8-18. During that week, attend cooking classes, learn about wine pairing, taste the newest and best in both wines and tequila, and, of course, dine out in the finest restaurants each with the special festival menu. For more information, visit www.festivalgourmet.com.

In Vallarta you can eat whatever your palate craves – Thai, International, Italian, Cuban, Argentinean, Spanish, Avant garde, Seafood - from the ritziest über expensive restaurants down to your taco stands on the streets. We went to a few classy restaurants, but I have to say, none were as memorable as a little place called Lonchería Chuyín, around the corner from the “Mercado de Artesanías” (arts and crafts market). This place was recommended to us by a friend we met at the market – his name is Rafa, and he has a beautiful jewellery store in the market. We asked where he likes to eat, and he said “con Chuyín”.

So we went in search of the famed Chuyín and found a humble little place fronted by a large grill, surrounded by tables and chairs. Chuyín himself took our order and cooked for us. From an extensive menu, Alexa ordered “Molletes”, toasted baguette topped with mashed beans, tons of melting white cheese and pico de gallo. The molletes were rich-tasting and the cheese was absolutely delicious with the milky-cow taste of Mexican cheeses. The serving was large enough to share.

The rest of us ordered “Tacos de Carne Asada” (grilled beef tacos). Our orders came on oval plates lined with a plastic bag, where three small tacos rested, topped liberally with chopped meat, sliced grilled onions and salsa. At the table, as is customary in taco establishments, were the house salsas – in this case a salsa verde, a salsa roja and a pico de gallo, along with the cilantro-onion mixture and lots of limes. The bag over the plate came to us as a surprise, but we realized that helps them on the clean-up part. In any case, the tacos were so good that we would not have cared if they served them to us out of the palm of their hands! The meat was tender and the grilled onions gave the tacos a sweet note, counterbalanced by the salsa that I eat liberally – usually one taco with red salsa, one with green salsa and the last one with both, since I can’t decide which one I like best. We could have easily ordered a second helping, but decided against that to save some room for the goodies at the malecón. Chuyín also makes the best “congas” (blended fruit drinks) in the city – served to go in a knotted plastic bag with a straw. The portion is about 750 ml – big enough to share as you walk around.

When you go to Vallarta you will surely end up inside the “Mercado de Artesanías”. There are two markets, side by side, right beside the malecón, right downtown. If you like jewellery, and in particular silver, then you will be in heaven. Walls and walls of chains, earrings, pendants, rings, necklaces, and anything else silver you can think of. Prices are only guidelines – locals expect you to bargain. You can usually bargain them down to a reasonable price. Well, even at their regular asking price, items are cheaper than you would find them in Canada. Be prepared to roast inside de market, since there is no air conditioning, but each stall has a fan to try to keep customers cool. Besides silver, you will find handblown glass made in nearby Tlaquepaque, hammocks, hats and the beautiful Huichol arts and crafts along with the usual souvenirs. In general I found the prices reasonable, and it’s always fun to bargain. Shop owners have a good memory and will remember you – especially if you don’t buy from them!

As for things to do, there are plenty of tours you can take in Vallarta – canopy tours in the nearby jungle, boat tours, you can swim with the dolphins, etc. We chose to go to two beaches, one south and one north of Vallarta. To the south we went to Yelapa, a small beach that has no road access. You have to take a water taxi. After a speedy half-hour ride, you arrive at a small beach where you can go for a horseback ride to see the waterfalls, or you can lay on the beach all afternoon like the famous local iguana – Pepe Lizardo, until you wait for the water taxi to come back for you at 5 PM. Small restaurants line the beach, but food is very expensive and not all that good. If you decide to go, take some fruit and plenty of drinks, and don’t forget the sunscreen and a hat, because there is no shade to be found.

North of Vallarta is the town of Sayulita, a sleepy little town where all the surfers go. This town is a hippie town – and it seems to be open mostly for the foreign tourist. Around July all stores start to close down, so if you go in the summertime, don’t plan on finding many establishments open. To get to Sayulita, you have to go on a bus, and it takes 1 hour and 20 minutes to get there, since it stops at every bus stop in between. If you have your own car it may take half an hour, and you drive through some beautiful jungle in the state of Nayarit.

The beach is beautiful, and there are decent enough waves. You can spend a whole afternoon watching the surfers do their thing. The beach has a few restaurants, and food is not as expensive as in Yelapa, so you can sample some local grilled “Dorado” (Mahi-Mahi) as you watch the surf.

Puerto Vallarta is a very fun place, and it has the reputation of being one of the safest beaches in Mexico, so you can walk without feeling scared, even very late at night. People are very friendly and will always offer a greeting or a smile as you walk by. You can have an all-inclusive holiday or stay at a 5-star hotel, but traveling “on a budget” has its charms, and for me, makes me feel closer to my Mexico. Besides, I want my girls to know how to travel that way, since I’m sure they will need that skill sometime!

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Laredo, Texas
June 2007

"Everything is Bigger in Texas!" said my daughter Alexa's homeroom teacher when she mentioned we were traveling south. Since, then, it became the joke, and everything we saw in Laredo, Texas, seemed to confirm the saying. Cars are bigger in Texas - mainly pick-up trucks and SUV's (no one seems to be concerned about the price of gas down here), serving portions in the restaurants, take-out drinks, grocery stores, houses (all with swimming pools), etc. It seems that Laredo experienced recently the biggest growth rate in the whole USA, and it certainly shows - it is nothing like the Laredo I remember from my youth. Now it's a big sprawling city with all the amenities, complete with a gorgeous 19-hole golf club. When you are in Laredo, it feels like you're in Mexico, except all the rules of the USA apply. It is a very peculiar feeling. Having said all that, I still prefer to go home - this was a pit-stop.

We stayed with my brother Goyo and his family, and I discovered (to my delight) that my brother also has the cooking bug: for him it translates to the BBQ. One usually has one barbecue, right? Well, my brother not only has a regular gas BBQ - he has a charcoal barbecue, a smoker, a humongous contraption that fits a whole pig on the lower part with a charcoal pit above, and then the "disco". This is the one that caught my attention immediately. I had read about "discadas", a specialty of northern rural Mexico, where ranch hands use a plowing disc (disco de harado) to cook over the fire. This particular "disco" was custom-made by my sister-in-law's brother. He had a blacksmith build sides and handles to the disc; then he built the wheeled stand which houses a BBQ tank with a powerful burner above, similar to the burners you see in Asian restaurants for the woks.

When Goyo informed me we were going to have "discada" for supper, we went shopping. On the list: garlic, onions, bell peppers, tomatoes, mushrooms, new potatoes and cilantro. For the meats: bacon, pork shoulder, rib eye steak, and kielbassa. And last, but not least, beer (to drink as well as to cook with).

Making discada is all about layering ingredients. You start with a hot disc (or wok) and in goes the bacon. When it's softened and has released some of its grease, you move the bacon to the edge of the disc and you add the pork. Once the pork has cooked somewhat, you move it to the edge of the disc and add the beef. Again, once it's cooked a bit, move it to the edge of the disc... you get the picture. Things get moved aside as they cook and you carry on with the next ingredient. In goes the kielbassa, then the onions, garlic and bell peppers, then the mushrooms and potatoes, then the tomatoes. When everything is nicely cooked, you pour in some beer - please, a nice beer - the very same one that you're drinking! At this point, everything gets mixed together and then the seasoning comes in - salt and pepper and maybe some chicken bouillion, which is Mexico's universal seasoning. At the very end, you throw in some chopped cilantro and it's ready to go.

Transfer the discada to serving bowls and place at the table along with lots of hot tortillas and hot salsa. The tacos are so good - the mixture cooks in its own juices, so more than sautéed, it stews a bit, so the resulting dish is rich and flavourful.

Recipes for discada are plentiful, but basically, it is a dish to make with what you have on hand. You can vary the meats, or use only one kind of meat; you can add sausage or finish it with cheese. In my case, I would definitely use fresh Jalapeños for a bit of a kick. For the liquid, you can certainly use white or red wine. The things that need to be there are some kind of meat, onions, garlic, bell pepper and tomatoes. The rest is up to you. For the complete recipe click here.

Next thing we're going to make on the disc is a paella... that should be interesting! But that will be after we go to Puerto Vallarta and we're on our way back. Something to look forward to!

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April 2006
Antonio’s passion for travelling and learning never ends. In April, 2006 he went to Verona (Italy) to attend the 40th Vinitaly, a prestigious exhibition of the world’s best wine production. Then he travelled two wine areas: Valpolicella (Veneto) and Chianti (Tuscany). The following reports, news and photographs are taken from his travel journal.

April 3-6, 2006
Vinitaly
Finita!!!

Pffeew! I believe I have made it to the last day of Vinitaly.

It is certainly worth while going to Vinitaly at least once every 2-3 years to get informed, up-to-date, and to try new products.

Remember: Italy is among the top producers and consumers both for quantity and quality. Everything seems to happen here.

Italy is fashion.
Italy is the hub of the world of wine.
Italy is the heart that pumps an endless passion…



April 3-6, 2006
Vinitaly
Throw your agenda away at the Vinitaly!
Ramandolo DOCG - An unforgettable experience from Friuli.

Every Italian region at the show has a big central area hosting educational seminars. I wish I could attend to all of them! Well…I have a plan: instead of going crazy and try to book my time to go in an organized manner, I dump my agenda (!!!) and I start to walk through all the regions with no appointments scheduled. And when I see a seminar going, I just join! Cool eh? Well… this can be done because there are SO MANY happening!

I was at the Friuli pavilion at the start of a seminar on the Ramandolo DOCG.

Here is how I would best describe a wine falling under this appellation:
Soft, sweet and flowery with an energetic bite of acidity and tannins that create the perfect meditative balance.

Wait… did I say ‘tannins’. But… we are talking about a white wine. How can it ever have tannins? Well, since this astringent substance is an extract from the grape skin and seeds, if we ferment white grapes with skins and seeds, we can also have tannins! Plus the wine is served cold, so the feeling of astringency is accentuated. One of the few wines in the world presenting this particular feature is produced in one of the smallest and less known DOCG areas in north Friuli (Italy North East). The grape is Verduzzo and the best Ramandolo (this name is taken from the village Ramandolo at the centre of the DOCG area) is the ‘passito’ version obtained with naturally dried grapes, so the sugar is all ‘natural’ (never added). 

One of the best regional matches is the locally produced Prosciutto di San Daniele DOP, shown in the picture.


April 3-6, 2006
Vinitaly
‘La trovo bene, la vedo fresco e ringiovanito. Mi sa che l’aria nostra le fa bene!’

This welcoming message was delivered to me from the friendly old fellow, the host of the locanda, as soon as he saw me going upstairs to my room, returning from my third exhausting day at Vinitaly.

‘I find you well, you look fresh and younger. I think our lake air is good for you!’

Well, I have to say that he made my day. I actually don’t feel fresh at all today. For three days I woke up at 6 am to be able to beat the crowd and find parking, avoid line-ups at the entrance and to start my intense days at the show early.

Vinitaly. all you want from a wine show. BIG, entertaining, informative, varied and different. You pay 35 Euro ($50 CAD per day) and nothing more. All the food and wine tastings are free, plus full immersion in the culture of the area you are tasting – bonus!

All 20 regions of Italy are fully represented in force. You can find all the 300+ varieties of Italian native grapes, thousands of labels, all the DOC and DOCG represented by more than 4,000 producers. Plus all the regional wine routes, the DOPs for food and more, more, more in an endless extravaganza of pleasures. And not only Italy is present. Many more wine countries of the world are represented with dignity. New and Old World. Interesting discoveries this year are India, China and Mexico with its Tequilas! Canada has a nice booth showcasing, with pride, the ice wines.

So, how can you not go crazy?

Definitely you have to choose a theme and follow it rationally. This time I chose to get all the possible information from the ‘Strade del Vino’, the network of wine routes crossing all over Italy to satisfy the new modern wine and food tourism: il turismo enogastronomico. I also wanted to get some training in olive oil tasting. The huge pavilion called SOL (Salone Olio d’Oliva) hosts hundreds of olive oil producers from every region and seminars on olive oil tasting, which I attended.

Here is my typical day at the show:

I arrive around 7:30 am, park and from 8 to 10 I use my laptop and the Internet stations to write articles and to upload pictures on the web site. Then breakfast and I go into full immersion to the region of the day. If I am not careful I don’t even realize it is time for a break to have some lunch. My stomach usually tells me that, though. So, sandwich at 1:30 pm (Italian lunch time). Then back to business. I am not doing a lot of wine tasting, but I am trying to learn more about the new trends, new DOC and DOCG and what is happening at the regional level. Italian regional politicians are very active in the wine world because it is one of the most important factors for the economy. You know, they actually make money with wine!

At around 6:30 pm I am back to the computer room and by 8 I am back to the locanda near the lake. 9 pm dinner time, also according to Italian habits. Good thing I haven’t forgotten all of these habits and my body re-adapted very quickly and easily. After dinner (where and when in the next article!) back to the room at 10 pm and go to bed around 12 am after reading the materials collected during the day.

I am not sure how the host of this locanda could EVER find me "well and refreshed"!!! 





April 3-6, 2006
Vinitaly
Amarone DOCG?

My friend Natale would say: ‘Finally!!!’…

I had a long conversation with the managers at the ‘Consorzio di tutela della Valpolicella’ (the ‘Consorzi di tutela’ are the offices whose purpose is to protect the brands and stamps from misuse and fraud).

YES, apparently the DOCG for the Valpolicella appellation has been requested by the Consorzio to the region and state and it is now under review. However, things are not so simple where law and bureaucracy are involved! First of all, we have to see IF the request is accepted.

Then for the “how”: restrictions will be in vigor, so many producers have to work hard to be compliant. Then we have to understand that, yes, the DOCG will be assigned to the Valpolicella, but, as you know, there are two main appellations in this Veneto valley. The ‘Classico’ area which is the first historic area where Valpolicella has always been produced and a larger area, including the ‘Classico’, just called Valpolicella DOC, which is a ‘newer’ area of production.

So, it is already a big fight here! Who will get the DOCG? Just the Classico, or both? Think of Chianti: the first DOCG has been assigned to all the 8 subzones of Chianti. Then, more recently, the Chianti Classico claimed and received its own DOCG. So, now there are two separate DOCG of Chianti: Chianti DOCG and Chianti Classico DOCG.

Will history repeat itself for Valpolicella? Will all the Amarone bottles bear the pink label (the government numbered label which tells the consumer that it is actually a DOCG), or only the ‘Amarone della Valpolicella Classico’?

We’ll see... I am personally very curious and I will stay tuned! It can only get more and more interesting... 



April 3 to 5, 2006
Amare l’amaro Amarone
Three Days in Valpolicella

The Italian title literally means ‘To love the bitter Amarone’. To be precise, I would personally say ‘Amare il Dolce Amarone’ meaning ‘To love the sweet Amarone’ not because Amarone has any sugar content but because it is a very ‘romantic drink’!

Let's start at the beginning:
my flight to Milano Malpensa was a smooth ride over the majestic white capped Alps. I arrived at 10am, then I rented a car and drove towards the Garda Lake (2 hour drive from Milano). I have to say, having skipped the night, I was not totally comfortable during the drive….some times I wanted to close my eyes, but driving in Italian highways, remember, is something not to be missed….! So, I stayed awake… I was driving at 130 km/h (highway speed limit) and I had trucks passing me! Well, I also had Mercedes passing me but for those I just had time to see the color of the car….

The Garda Lake region is a wonderful place to visit. The calm of the lake, the nice breeze, the view of the white Alps all around and the sexy mist of the early mornings are a nice treat far from the busy city life. I am in Peschiera del Garda: a place to rest, a place to meditate, a place to love.

Though… I have to say that my resting time only consists of a few hours. I am busy getting the maximum out of my visit to the wine regions. After the busy day of ‘wine touring’ I come back to my room in a nice small locanda, open the window and breathe the freshness while looking at the lake. And right away I get busy organizing notes, downloading photographs to my computer, sorting them, preparing the tour for next day and writing small articles.

This West corner of Veneto features many wine regions and three ‘classics’ among them. With the term ‘classic’ the Italian wine labels refer to a historic area where that type of wine was first made. (Think of Chianti Classico in Tuscany, for example).

Here they are from West to East:
Bardolino Classico
Valpolicella Classico
Soave Classico

Bardolino is a small area on the East coast of Garda Lake a few km north of Peschiera where I am staying. It is a lovely fresh wine with a light ruby (sometimes almost rose) colour to be enjoyed young, accompanying the local cuisine of fresh lake fish.  The wine is made with local grapes that we find all over this region: Corvina, Rondinella, Molinara.

Continuing East, Valpolicella is north of Verona including 4 main townships and many villages. Same grapes: Corvina, Rondinella, Molinara. Sometimes another native, Corvinone is also used.

Then further East around the town of Soave, we find the Soave Classico area.

I toured Bardolino and more extensively the Valpolicella. It is always educating and entertaining at the same time to chat with the producers especially when the topic is a difficult one: the many forms of vinification of the Valpolicella. We have many different types of wine produced here: a Superiore, a Ripasso, a Recioto, and the Amarone, so I wanted to understand fully all the ins and outs according to the winemakers’ view.

From the 6^th to the 10^th I will be fully immersed in the Vinitaly, one of the world’s biggest wine shows held right here in Verona. Stay tuned!

Look at my pictures here.

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Vacationing in Cancún during Hurricane Emily

Friday, July 8, 2005
I got an email from my friend Antonio saying that there was going to be a hurricane near Cuba during our coming stay in Cancún, “but don’t worry”, he said, “you probably won’t get it”.  Little did he know…

Friday, July 15, 2005
Cancún was all abuzz with talk of the hurricane. Watching the national news this evening we got an alarming picture of hurricane Emily.
Coming from the Caribbean and traveling in a steady course north-west, the category 4 “Emily” was expected to hit Jamaica during the next 24 hours.  It started as a category 5, went down to 2 and back up to 4.  The National Weather Service was watching it closely in hopes that from Jamaica it would change its course and move towards the Gulf of Mexico and miss the Yucatán peninsula.
My sister Pilar and I watched the news in morbid fascination – thinking it was a surreal experience and it could not be happening during our much-anticipated holiday!  The more we watched, the more nervous we became, hearing of the measures the authorities had already taken. Hotels started to notify their guests of the hurricane by letter and strongly advised them to go back to their place of origin; locals living in vulnerable places were advised to pack up their belongings and move out to safer ground.  Tourists who decided to stay were being asked to sign a letter releasing the management of any responsibility.
For locals who decided to stay and brave “Emily” there were instructions on how to safeguard their homes and provided with lists of supplies and first aid kits to have on hand.  President Vicente Fox stated the National Guard was on site and on full alert and prepared for any eventuality.  They even made reference to hurricane Gilberto, which went through Cancún in 1988 with devastating effects.  I remember that one clearly because after Cancún it went right through my hometown of Monterrey, destroying everything in its path.
Sitting there, watching the news I experienced a bit of a panic attack – tightness in the chest, rapidly beating heart – I started to imagine all sorts of horrible things – our hotel room being on the first floor, and not even 100 metres from the beach!  I was imagining those 5 metre waves and 240 km winds coming right through our wall of windows.
BASTA!!!  I looked at Pilar and without a word we got dressed and at midnight went down to the front desk to get the “local” perspective. The lobby was business as usual. We expected to see all kinds of hysterical guests (kind of like ourselves!) asking for word, but it was quiet. When we asked, the receptionist just gave us an indulgent smile and proceeded to tell us everything was all-right. Having lived all his life in Cancún, he calmly pointed out that the weather was still nice.  If the hurricane was imminent it would have started to rain already. He then showed us the emails they got every 4 hours from the “Servicio Meteorológico Nacional” and “Servicio de Protección Civil”. Ironically, this document was VERY different from what we had heard on the news. Much calmer, we went back to our room. We would have to wait until morning to get more news.

Saturday, July 16, 2005

The day dawned sunny and calm, and we could not find any local news on TV.  CNN was saying “Emily” was category 4 and it was on its way to Miami, but it didn’t say anything about Yucatán or Quintana Roo.
After last night’s fiasco, we headed right for the locals to get the low-down. The story was the same as the night before: “it’s still far away, look outside, it’s nice and sunny and not overly windy.  If we do get it, it won’t be here until Sunday night or Monday, and then it probably will be only rain”.
We were a bit concerned, since our plane was scheduled to leave Tuesday night and if there was a hurricane the airport would be closed down, but they assured us that unless we were in the eye of the storm, planes would still fly (scary thought, let’s not go there).
So, after all that we decided to stay informed, but not get overly alarmed by the TV newscasts. We listened to the locals – after all, they have lived this countless times. So we went to get our sunscreen and towels and went about our business of baking in the sun.

Sunday, July 17, 2005
1:00 AM
A note was slipped under our door.  It was a notice from hotel management informing us of the imminent evacuation of all guests to the “Centro de Convenciones”.  We were asked to pack all our bags and put them in the bathroom and close the door. As for our stay at the shelter, we were told to pack one or two changes of clothing and no more.  We were supposed to be at the lobby for a 12:30 PM departure. After that bit of lovely news we slept fitfully only to wake up at 2:30 AM – loud thunder and lightning were lighting up the sky. Our room, being one solid wall of windows was as bright as day each time lightning struck.  My bed was closest to the windows and for a minute I felt the childish urge to crawl into bed with my sister (but I managed to conquer my fears and stay put)! Thankfully, tiredness won and I finally fell asleep, only to wake up to a bright and sunny morning.

Sunday, July 17, 2005
9:00 AM
We got up and packed our bags, as instructed.  We went down for breakfast and found the lobby all boarded up, with smaller windows taped with an “X” and a cross. In the lobby and restaurants, all the tables and chairs were cleared; outside, all the beach beds were put away. In the front desk, all computer equipment was disconnected and moved to another floor, to a safe place. Looking at the faces all around us, we could tell there were some pretty nervous people.  Strangely enough, calm had descended upon me and I was ready for whatever came up – I decided it would be a grand adventure. Of course, I heard that the “Centro de Convenciones” was one big hunking mass of concrete with not too many windows, so that may have had something to do with my “calmness”!

12:30 PM
We boarded a luxury bus that would take us three blocks down to our appointed shelter.  I had imagined taking a bus to go down to Tulum, to see the ruins, or Xel-ha, to do some snorkeling, not to be taken to a shelter where we could spend up to 48 hours cooped up with 400 nervous people!  Not even a kilometre away we got off the bus to enter the shelter.  All the stores on the street were boarded up or taped – it was a weird feeling to see the streets deserted. I imagine that it’s the same kind of feeling you get in war zones, when there are curfews – everyone hiding out in fear.
In the Convention Centre we climbed up to the third floor, where we were each given a chair, a blanket and a pillow. We were told that after a certain time we would not be allowed to leave the floor or even come close to the windows.

6:00 PM
People promptly set up make-shift beds and settled in for the duration.  We settled near the doors, and we had as neighbours some other people we had met briefly at the hotel.  In these kinds of situations you make friends very easily, so we promptly stuck up conversations and even took turns going out to see what was happening. We were allowed outside for one last time, and we walked to the ocean, one block away.  Winds were getting pretty strong – bad enough so we had to fight to walk forward.  After a bit of a struggle, we made it to the beach, and it was quite a sight.  In a place where the water would normally be calm like a swimming pool, water was churning and waves were hitting the beach pretty hard, and the sky was starting to look very dark and cloudy.  We could not stay long, since the wind was stirring up the sand and it was stinging our skin, and getting into our eyes, so we turned around and went back to our safe place.
A light supper was served – a tuna sandwich, a small salad and a chicken cutlet with a glass of pop.  It was interesting and disturbing to see that many foreigners were not very understanding of the situation. They demanded things as if they were still in the hotel and were quite obnoxious about it.  It made me feel for the hotel personnel who had been working hard to ensure our comfort and safety.

8:00 PM
Pilar sweet-talked the guard so he would let us go down to the first floor to check out the action. The force of the wind was rattling the glass and the wind sounded like a high-pitched scream – a never-ending scream, just going up and down.  The tops of the palm trees were swaying back and forth with an amazing force.  Strangely enough, it did not seem to be raining.  We were eagerly waiting until 9 PM, so we could hear a special newscast on TV, since the information from hotel management was very unreliable – everyone seemed to have a different story, so we came to the conclusion of not believing anyone!

9:00 PM
The newscast reported that the storm had already hit land and that the eye of the hurricane would hit Cozumel, Playa del Carmen and Tulum around 1 AM on Monday. On its course, the worst of the storm would hit Cancún around 4 AM.
Winds were reported to be 95 km at the centre, and 215-245 km winds on the edges. Waves were 4 metres high at the centre and tapering down to less at the periphery.  It was traveling very slowly, at 32 km/hr, so it would take longer for it to go through.
Electrical fluctuations started to affect the city and lights had already started to flicker in the Convention Centre. In the hotel zone in Cancún, electrical cables run underground, so it was not likely we would lose power, but everywhere else, there were reports of black-outs. There were 4,000 tourists and 1,200 locals in different shelters around the area.
Another round of food was given out – another sandwich and small salad, along with coffee or pop. We were warned not to go for seconds, in case children got hungry during the night.  Food was rationed, so if we were still hungry we would have to wait until morning.

10:30 PM
Lights were dimmed – people settled for the night. Guards had secured the corridors so there are no stragglers left out.  Again, foreigners questioned every single thing the security staff requested.  It was very frustrating to see this type of behaviour, and I must say, I was quite proud of the Canadians and the Mexicans, no one that I could see made a fuss about anything.

Monday, July 18, 2005
2:00 AM
Well, so much for having underground cables and safe electricity!  On top of that, the generator in the Convention Centre was not working, so we had no air conditioning.  Do you know what it’s like to be in a closed place with 400 people?  Well, let me tell you, it was HOT!  So, we did not get much sleep that night.  It was kind of funny that in a room with so many people there were not that many snoring!  Of course, the loudest one of all had to be right beside us!  So, I entertained myself by listening to the sounds of all the people around me.  I don’t know how Pilar was able to sleep, but for me it was a very long night….

6:00 - 8:00 AM
People started to stir and get up.  It was my birthday!  It was not that pleasant to wake up in a shelter, but hey, better there than at the hotel with so many windows!
A simple breakfast was served and we were so hungry that we devoured it. The staff had been working hard to have things ready so early for everyone. People were subdued, but no longer seemed nervous.

9:00 AM
We were informed that the worst of the storm had passed and that we would be leaving the shelter that morning around 11:30.  My sneaky little sister managed to tell the manager about my birthday and I had 400 people sing “Happy Birthday” to me!  Wow!  What a way to start my day!! 

10:30 AM
We left the shelter earlier than expected. We were on the first bus out - they would not let us walk, claiming that they could not afford for anything to happen to us on route.  We made it back to the hotel to find the effects of the storm very obvious. Trees and signs were down everywhere and there was sand all over the roads.  The hotel looked deserted, but no damage to the glass or structure was apparent.  We went out to the beach to inspect the damage and found there were some trees and “palapas” (thatched roofs) down and the beach was full of “sargazo” (algae) and debris. The normally crystalline water was grey and it smelled strongly of dead fish. The pool was full of sand, so there would be no swimming anytime soon! After that depressing inspection, we went up to our room and the first thing we did was have a shower and a sleep, which was fine and dandy, since it was pouring rain outside.

1:00 PM
We went for lunch and again found that lots of guests were complaining that the extent of the buffet was not very big.  I could not understand how people can be so selfish. Could they not see that the hotel staff was working hard to put everything back to normal?  The least they could do is be understanding and just accept that the day was not going to be quite normal, but at least we were alive and safe!
Pilar and I went for a walk in the pouring rain – it was wonderful to be OUTSIDE!  We learned a lot from the experience, and most of it can be applied to everyday life:

First: don’t over-react to bad news. 
Second: try to get all the facts and learn all you can before making any decisions. 
Third: if you cannot help but be stuck in a bad situation, make the most of it – you will meet some wonderful people along the way and you will learn from them.
Fourth: appreciate the small things in life – you never know when they can be taken away from you.
Fifth: stay positive.
Sixth:  don’t go to Cancún between May and December!  :-)))

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Casa Madero, the oldest winery in America
Parras, Coahuila, Mexico, Pueblo Mágico
July 8-9, 2005

My association with José Milmo of Casa Madero started early this year, after I came across a bottle of Casa Madero Cabernet Sauvignon sampled at a wine tasting seminar in The Cultural Kitchen.

The bottle was purchased at the LCBO and it was a Vintages release during the month of November, 2004.  As you probably know, once the stock is gone from the shelves, it is hard to get it again, so I decided to contact Casa Madero to find out where I could find more of their fabulous wine – I was fascinated with the discovery of Mexico being a good producer of wine.  I needed to find out more.

I did some research, and found out that they were just about to release the Casa Grande Gran Reserva Shyraz, a wine that had been winning all sorts of medals world-wide, and that’s when I got really excited – my mind started to work, making all sorts of plans...

After I sent an email through the website, I received an answer from none other than the owner, José Milmo, and he was the nicest, most down-to-earth person you could ever come across.  After a few emails back and forth, I asked if I could visit the winery during my upcoming trip to Mexico, and I received and invitation for a full tour of the “bodega”  (winery) and vineyards.

Everything was set for September, and then I found out my trip was going to be sooner than expected.  José regretted he would not be there to meet me, but he asked his sons in Monterrey – Daniel and Brandon - to organize my visit.

The trip to Parras was scheduled for July 8.  My sister Pilar and I left Monterrey with specific instructions from Daniel on how to get to San Lorenzo, just outside the city of Parras, in the neighbouring state of Coahuila – 170 kms from Monterrey. Driving east towards Saltillo and then towards Parras, the hilly landscape of Monterrey changed to become desert-like.  Seeing it I could not believe vines would grow there!  But, as we came to San Lorenzo, we saw an “oasis” in the middle of the desert.

As we turned in to what is the Hacienda San Lorenzo it was nearing 2 o’clock – lunch time - and the place looked deserted. If it hadn’t been for the cars parked on the road, it could have looked as it had 500 years ago - it had a tranquil siesta-like atmosphere that promptly put me in mind of days gone by. Perhaps my mind was already in the past, since Casa Madero, or I should say, Hacienda San Lorenzo was founded in the year 1597.

In 1549, the area was christened Misión de Santa María de las Parras by Spanish priests, since they found wild vines - fed by water springs - growing everywhere (“parras” means vines in Spanish). During the times of the conquest, Spanish catholic priests spread all through Mexico in their mission to convert all natives into Catholicism.  To perform their masses, they needed wine, so it only made sense to settle in Parras and start making it. The wild vines growing there would not produce grapes suitable for wine, so the priests brought the “Mission” vine to Parras and that’s how it all began.

In August, 1597, Don Lorenzo García, having settled in Parras years before, was given a land grant by King Phillip II of Spain.  The sole purpose of this grant was to establish a vineyard to produce wine and brandy. Thus, the Hacienda de San Lorenzo came about. Wine was produced here for commercial purposes for the first time in America.  It is interesting to note that in a copy of a XVII Century Mexican food manuscript I have, there is mention of wines produced in Parras. In fact, the wines of Parras (and other parts of Mexico) were of such good quality, that when the King of Spain learned about this, he got so scared of the competition against Spanish wines that he prohibited wine production, and he ordered whole vineyards destroyed. By the year 1650 San Lorenzo’s vineyards had more than 90,000 vines, which in those days translated to approximately 90 hectares of vineyards. San Lorenzo survived the hard times by making wines for the Church.

Such an old estate has to have some history attached: “El Padre Hidalgo” slept at the house, on his way to the firing squad.  For those of you who don’t know Mexican history too well, Don Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla (catholic priest) was one of the key figures of the Mexican Independence. Hidalgo was the one that gave the famous “grito” (shout) from his pulpit on Sept. 15, 1810, when the fight for Independence from Spain was proclaimed. He gathered an impressive number of troops and led them to victory in countless battles.  Sadly, like most heroes, he came to a bloody end in Chihuahua in the year of 1811.

When the descendants of Don Lorenzo García sold the estate, it was bought by Don Evaristo Madero  in the year of 1893.  He was the grandfather of another famous man in Mexican history:  Francisco I. Madero, who became President of Mexico in the year 1910. José Milmo is a direct descendant of Don Evaristo, and is the present owner of Casa Madero.

In 1959, the owners wanted someone in the family to go study Enology in France, at the University of Montpellier. Three cousins went – one of them being José.  Out of the three, only José finished his studies and came back to Parras, having discovered a passion for wine and the process for making it. He came back to Parras ready to take Casa Madero into the world wine scene. He wanted Casa Madero to make more wine than brandy, so he began inviting experts from all over the world to consult with him.

They started to replace all the vineyards with European varieties with good results.  In the 1970’s they suffered the worse fate any wine producer can face: phylloxera.  It took them a long time to recover from that and by 2003 the whole estate was re-planted with European clones that were free of viruses.  During this process, they learned which varieties were suited better to the terrain, thus producing better grapes and better wines.

In the present, Casa Madero has 450 hectares of vines, with white varieties like Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc and Sémillon.  The red ones are Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Shiraz. They are also the first and only winery in Mexico that has a “denominación de orígen” (DO).

The Parras Valley has very special climate conditions. It has an elevation of 1,500 metres above sea level and it is desert-like. The weather is constant and stable. In the winter, temperatures go below zero, which is needed so the plants go dormant.  In the summer, hot days range from 35 - 42 degrees Celsius, and cool nights around 12 -15 degrees Celsius. Relative humidity is low, between 10 and 40%. This type of weather is very dependable and year after year they can count on this to guarantee that the grapes mature slowly, concentrating the flavours and aromas.

Alfonso Cárdenas was our tour guide in the winery, and he took us through the plant to see how grapes are crushed, then fermented, while he explained the ageing process and then walked us through the centuries-old cellars that have remained the same since they were built in 1597.  They use barrels that are made of 50% American white oak, 20% French oak and 30% Eastern Europe (Slovakia) oak.  Depending on the vintage, the fermented wine will stay in the barrels anywhere from 3 months to 26 months, as in the case of the Casa Grande Gran Reserva vintages.

José has surrounded himself and Casa Madero with people that are totally passionate about vines, grapes and wine production. He must be doing something right, because the people that start working in San Lorenzo stay for a long time – many of their employees are considered family, since they have been there years and years.  And that’s exactly what it felt like to be invited to Parras: we felt like we had come home and were just visiting family, everyone was so generous and friendly.

The perfect example was our invitation to stay at the “casona” (old house). It was built in 1597, and it remains beautifully kept.  There are 25 bedrooms and 4 interior patios, along with the dining rooms, an amazing huge kitchen (my favourite) and storage rooms.  The walled outdoor garden with swimming pool are used for events, and they host weddings and special dinners regularly, set among the pecan and fig trees, bouganvilleas and cacti – a very romantic setting.

Daniel Muñoz, the viticulturist in charge of all the vineyards also has a small “huerto” (orchard), and he grows enough fruits and vegetables to supply the house and all its guests.  Meals here are relaxed drawn-out affairs, and the first night we were treated to a dinner under the stars, among bouganvilleas and candles.  Our dinner was a very Mexican “carne asada” (barbecued steak) and “quesadillas” (cheese-filled tortillas), “frijoles charros” (ranch-style beans) and guacamole, accompanied by the Casa Madero Cabernet Sauvignon I had tried in Ottawa a few months before. For dessert we had a delicious home made candy – a specialty of Parras: “queso de nuez” (a sort of pecan fudge). Very nice...

The next morning, after Daniel gave us an extensive tour of the vineyards, we had an equally delicious breakfast in the dining room. We started with a fruit platter consisting of cantaloupe, honeydew, watermelon and papaya, sprinkled with a bit of lime.  Then we were served a huge plate of “chilaquiles” (crispy tortilla pieces bathed in salsa) and “frijoles refritos” (well-fried beans).  A nice glass of freshly squeezed orange juice alongside the “café con leche”, and to end it all, another specialty of Parras: “campechanas” (the thinnest mille-feuille pastries) served with home-made apricot jam.

After our enjoyable breakfast we took our leave, but not before visiting the store to buy a few bottles of the Casa Madero and Casa Grande vintages.  We felt we were leaving a piece of Mexican history behind.  José Milmo has brought Casa Madero into the 21^st century, and he has been able to do this because he’s kept in touch with what’s happening world wide in the wine industry.  There are always consultants from Australia, New Zealand, United States, France and Chile visiting Parras.  On top of that, their viticulturists and enologists continuously travel to the different wine regions to keep up with the newest technologies.

Casa Madero exports to more than 27 countries. I would urge you to try their wines – ask for them at your local LCBO and discover for yourself that Mexican wines are just as good as their international counterparts.

Casa Madero
www.casamadero.com.mx

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A visit to that magical place, Real de Catorce, San Luis Potosí
Real de Catorce, Pueblo Mágico
July 9-10, 2005

We left Monterrey to head west towards Saltillo. Passing Saltillo we started to climb, and our little Ford Fiesta rental performed really well crossing those mountain passes.  Just before reaching Matehuala, we turned off towards Cedral (the tiny town where my Nanny was born), and just past it we came to the access road to Real de Catorce.  Driving for 24 kilometres on a cobblestone road, while continuously climbing in elevation made me feel a bit queasy, so I was ecstatic when we came to the “Túnel Ogarrio”, only to feel my relief vanish when I saw the long, slow line-up of cars going into the 2 kilometre long drive through the hot, dark and dusty tunnel.

When we finally emerged on the other side we were met with quite a sight: the normally deserted “ghost town” was alive with people on market day.  Stalls upon stalls lined up the roads and we found it almost impossible to drive through. We were conned into “hiring” a guide to lead us to our hotel and find a parking spot – dubious as that sounded, we only gave in because our guide was a really cute little boy, so we didn’t mind.

Finding accommodations was a bit tricky, since the town was packed with visitors, and we ended up in “La Posada de San Francisco” a clean but otherwise seriously depressing abode – the only nice thing about it was the spectacular view from our window!  Still, you can’t expect the seventh wonder when you’re paying $150 pesos per night for my sister Pilar and I (that’s around $19.00 CAD).

Dressed in runners, jeans and T-shirts, we went out to explore the town.  Our first stops, the museum and “Casa de la Moneda” (the Mint), where I was hoping to get all the history of the town were closed for renovations, so I had to rely on Pilar for the stories. It turned out that she was an exceptional tour guide, being that it was her fourth time in Real!

So this is how the story goes… the town of Real de Alamos de la Purísima Concepción de los Catorce  has an altitude of 2,750 metres above sea level, and lies on the “Sierra de Catorce”. This area of Mexico has long been territory of assorted native tribes, going back to the central Aztecs, or Nahuas, also known as Chichimecas. Comanches also raided the area countless times and we know that close by lies the ceremonial site of sacred pilgrimages of the Huichol Indians, or Wixarrica. The Huichol shamans chew on the flesh of the “peyovenado”, or “peyote” cactus to experience visions during their sacred ceremonies, and in Real you will find all kinds of souvenirs in the shape of the mystic peyote.

The town was founded in the year 1638, when it was officially declared a “Real” (royal) settlement by Spain. Around 1772 silver was found and the town boomed as one of the most important mining towns of North America. The church was finished in 1817, and around the year of 1888  the “Túnel Ogarrio” was built to go through the mountain for easier access to Real. All in all, the town prospered, and at the beginning of the 20^th Century, when the Mexican Revolution broke out, most of the 15,000 inhabitants of Real left, leaving it in a state of semi-abandonment.  It continued like that for decades, until the 70’s, when foreigners started to visit and stay, so the population started to grow until it reached its present number of around 1,300.  Pilar’s description of the people of Real is “hippies” – many came from Spain, Italy, Argentina Switzerland and Germany, among others.  Most of them are artists and artisans, and they live off the articles they create.  So there is a lot of shopping to be done in Real.  You can find silver jewelry, semi-precious stones, lots and lots of amber, rocks and minerals, and Huichol art, among other things. 

Something else the town is very famous for is the "La Parroquia" (church), or rather, the patron saint – San Francisco de Asís.  “San Francisquito”, or “Panchito”, as he is fondly called, is very miraculous, according to the thousands upon thousands of pilgrims who flock to Real for October 4^th each year, when the sleepy town’s population swells until there are no vacancies in the whole place and you can barely walk on the streets. If you want to blend in, here’s what you do:  as you approach the church you will see vendors selling “milagros” – these are small golden pendants you can buy - then you go to Panchito’s altar  and after a suitable time on your knees praying, you approach the altar and place your “milagros” there – flowers are optional. If you are still in doubt, you can visit a room at the back of the church that’s plastered with “retablos”, a type of thank you card sent by all the grateful believers who have received a miracle from Panchito.  The church itself is very simple, but when you walk in there is a feeling of peace that permeates the air – perhaps it is the vibrations of all the faithful people present that makes it feel like that. Even if you are not catholic, it is something to be seen.

In Real there are a few major hotels, and they have good restaurants (many of them Italian). Among the Mexican specialties there is rabbit, done in many different ways, along with the ever-popular Antojitos. You should not miss trying “cabuches”, the flower buds of the “biznaga de espina roja”  or red spine barrel cactus, which are then pickled and eaten like olives.

For the adventurous, there are the market specialties: “gorditas” (thick corn dough tortillas filled with assorted flavours), “enchiladas potosinas” (red tortillas filled with cheese and garnished with carrots and potatoes), “cabrito al pastor” (barbecued kid goat), and “chicharrones y carnitas” (pork skin, rinds, and fried meat). On the sweet side, “tortillas de nata y pan de feria” (sweet yeasted tortillas and sweet bread) and the tastiest “rompopes” (flavoured eggnogs), “cajetas” (milk caramel), home-made jams and conserves and local goat cheeses.

Everyone in Real is really friendly and you can strike up conversations with anyone – from the guy in the market frying pork rinds, to the man standing in his balcony as you walk by.  If you are in search of things to do, they are a good source of information, or you can talk to the dozens of men offering tours to the mountains – either on horseback or by foot.  Entertainment in Real is limited to shopping or hiking in the mountains - to visit the “ghost town” which is really the ruins of the old mine, or to search for peyote and explore the desert-like vegetation. Nightlife is almost nonexistent, and the most you will find is a couple of bars with live music on the weekends.  Real de Catorce is really a place to go relax and commune with nature.  It is a very peaceful town, where the air is very clean and the sunsets are beautiful. I definitely will go back, but next time I’d like to experience it when there are less tourists around.

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Tequila, centuries of tradition in Mexico.
Tequila, Jalisco, Mexico, Pueblo Mágico
Monday, July 4, 2005

We left Guadalajara early Monday morning on our way to the small town of Tequila, Jalisco. You have to take Highway 15, towards Ameca, traveling northwest. It’s about 45 kilometres and the drive takes about 1 hour, depending on traffic. As we were nearing the town, it was apparent we were in tequila country – there are “agaves azules” (the succulents used for making tequila) growing everywhere: up the hills, on the side of the road, even in people’s back yards, among other plants and cacti. The landscape looks beautiful, a patchwork with distinctive blue patches amongst the greens and browns of other crops.

It’s strange to think of a town called Tequila, since we associate the name with Mexico’s most famous drink, but the town’s name came first and then they applied it to the liquor.

If we explore a bit of history, we have to go back to the time of the Mexicas, native peoples living in the area.  They used to call the agave plant “Metl”, and the plant had multiple uses: roofing, posts, the thorns were used as needles or nails, etc.  One day, during a thunderstorm, lightning hit a “piña” (the heart of the agave) and the heat cooked it, the honey started to come out and was fermented. When the natives discovered it and drank it they thought it gave a pleasant sensation, and the beverage was born.  The “piña” was called “mezcal”, which in the “náhuatl” language means “something that is cooked”. 

When the Spanish came to Mexico, they called this beverage “vino de mezcal”, or mezcal wine.  In 1758 José Guadalupe Cuervo  started distilling Tequila, and in 1795, Carlos IV of Spain granted him the first official licence for making it. Now there is a “Denominación de Origen” (DO) which includes 5 different States where Tequila is produced: Jalisco, Michoacán, Guanajuato, Nayarit and Tamaulipas.  These are the only authorized areas to produce Tequila. Any other place that makes this beverage has to call it something else.

There are about 200 types of agaves in Mexico, but only Agave Azul Tequilana Weber is used to make Tequila.  The plant takes 8-10 years to reach maturity. The “jimador” (harvester) still harvests and carries the piñas by hand. Each “piña” weighs an average of 60 kilos, although they can go up to 200 kilos. 7 kilos of raw agave yield 1 L of 100% agave tequila.

I visited Mundo Cuervo in Tequila. This is where José Cuervo's La Rojeña plant, the oldest distillery, has been in operation for 210 years. This plant produces tequila in an old-fashioned way, more like artisanal tequila. Piñas are still carried by hand to the ovens, and the production is about 30,000 L a day, versus the 130,000 L a day that are produced in the La Laja plant, where the process is ultra modern. All the tequilas distilled in both these plants are bottled in the Guadalajara plant.

The piñas are unloaded onto the Patio and from there they are split in half or quarters and taken to the16 ovens.  Raw piñas consist of fibre, starch and water, just like a “jícama” or a potato.  They are steamed for 36 hours, when the startches turn into sugars that become alcohol during fermentation.  The cooked piñas taste like caramelized sweet potato with a mild tequila aftertaste. They are then cooled for 8 hours. 

The cooked agave goes into the “Molienda” or crusher machines.  These machines extract all the “aguamiel”, or honey water.  The left over fiber is called “bagazo”, and it is used for making compost, agave paper, agave cookies, decorations, rope, etc.  Nothing is wasted!

The “aguamiel” then goes into the fermentation tanks.  These tanks hold 50,000 L of aguamiel.  The fermentation process takes 18 hours at 34-36 degrees Celsius, which yields 14% alcohol.  The temperature has to be closely monitored - if it’s too hot, the yeast will die, and if it’s not hot enough, the yeast becomes lazy and it does not ferment properly.

The last stage in the process is distillation in copper “alambiques” (stills).  Copper is preferred because it conserves the flavour of the agave.  There is always a double distillation. The first is a 3-hour distillation that produces a common 25% alcohol that is not drinkable. The second distillation is a 6-hour process called Rectification, where the methanol is eliminated and you get pure tequila of 55% alcohol.  This tequila is then diluted using distilled water to make it 35-40% alcohol, which is what we drink.  All tequilas are clear at this point - the colour comes later, when the tequila is aged in oak barrels, or when adding flavourings, as in the case of mixed tequilas.

From the alambiques it goes into the barrels for the aging process.  There are 2 classes of tequila: 100% agave and the mixed tequilas, which contain a minimum of 51% agave and 49% of other sugars, such as cane sugar.

There are 3 types of tequilas: “Blanco or Joven” (white or young tequila). This one does not go into the barrels.  “Reposado” (rested) is aged for a minimum of 2 months and a maximum of a year minus one day in American oak barrels. “Añejo” (Old”) is aged for a minimum of 1 year in French and American white oak barrels. 

Then they have the special tequilas, which are more like cognacs.  “Reserva de la Familia” is a premium tequila which was created to celebrate the company’s 200 year anniversary. They only produce 15,000 L a year, and the best raw material goes into making this one.  They use 12 year-old agaves and the steaming takes 76 hours, to get more sweetness out of the plants.  Distillation takes 36 hours, which helps it keep all that sweetness. Then it is aged for 5 years in French and American white oak barrels. Each bottle is shipped in a simple wooden box, but each year they have a different artist design the art on the box, so it has become a bit of a collector’s item every year.

During our tour we tasted 6 Tequilas. In the Aging room there was a booth set up to taste Tequila 1800, one of their mid-range priced products. We tasted “blanco, reposado and añejo”. When you taste them like that, one after the other you can really smell and taste the difference in these tequilas. After the tour we sat down to an actual “cata” (tasting) of Tequila Centenario. They showed us how to make a sensorial analysis, where you use your five senses to taste the tequila, much like you do when tasting wine. Tasting tequila is a bit trickier though, since the alcohol level is so much higher than in wine - you have to be able to get past the alcohol to be able to discern the distinctive aromas in tequila. Maestro Tequilero Francisco Hajnal tells us it takes lots and lots of practice. Let me tell you it’s quite an experience!

When buying tequila, make sure the label says CRT ("Consejo Regulador del Tequila", or Tequila Regulatory Council, who ensures the distillers meet the standards and quality controls under Mexican legislation) and NOM ("Norma Oficial Mexicana", or Official Mexican Standard, who makes the rules of making tequila).  Only 100% agave tequilas will have these terms.  Tequilas that are mixed will not say this, so that’s your clue.  They recommend using mixed tequilas for making cocktails, or if you only have 100% agave tequila at home, use the white or rested tequilas for mixing.  The Tequila Tradicional label is recommended to be served cold, it’s more pleasant that way. Reserve the aged or premium tequilas for sipping after supper while enjoying a good dessert or cigar.

A visit to Mundo Cuervo is not just about Tequila. José Cuervo established “La Fundación Cuervo” three years ago.  This is a non-profit organization that helps artisans become self-sufficient.  Anyone can come to the school, where masters teach their crafts.  They also supply a space where these artisans can sell their works, helping them better their way of life. There is silver-smithing, weaving, embroidery, sewing, ceramics and sculpting, among others. All these workshops are housed in what used to be a beautiful old chapel.They also offer High School courses to anyone who wants to take them.  The company says that they have received so much from the people and the land that they want to give something back.  So you can go to Mundo Cuervo and admire the beautiful artwork these artisans create and buy something, if you’re so inclined. 

I had a wonderful experience in Tequila. Not only did I learn tons about Tequila, I also spent a day talking to warm, kind people whose main interest is to educate, promote and make a lasting good impression of what is Mexico. I’m proud to say that Tequila has become an icon of Mexican nationality, pride and culture, recognized worldwide.  As they like to say in Mundo Cuervo: “Hoy el tequila no sólo se bebe, sino también se vive.” (today tequila is not only for drinking, it’s also for living). Salud!

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A lazy Sunday in Tapalpa
Tapalpa, Jalisco, Mexico, Pueblo Mágico
July 3, 2005

I had been staying at my Aunt Celina’s and Uncle Pedro’s place in Guadalajara for a few days, along with my aunt Miriam. Pedro is an adventure writer, and he knows the area around Guadalajara like the back of his hand. When I asked to be taken to a place that was beautiful and not as touristy as others, both him and Celina immediately suggested Tapalpa. We started our day early, wanting to make our way to Tapalpa before the crowds got there, since it was Sunday and that’s the day Mexicans reserve for God and play.

Leaving Guadalajara we traveled south west on the road to Colima.  Then we turned off the freeway towards Tapalpa and started climbing the Sierra del Tigre.  Going up and up on narrow winding roads we traveled about 50 kms to get to Tapalpa.

The town of Tapalpa has been the playground of “Tapatíos” (Guadalajara natives) for the longest time.  They like to escape and spend the rainy season relaxing out of town. The rains pummel Guadalajara during the months of June and early September, so basically, many “Tapatíos” consider Tapalpa their summer home.

Perched atop of the hills, Tapalpa is a quaint little town of cobbled streets, whitewashed homes with red tiled roofs and friendly people.  Two churches, one facing the other grace the plaza, along with numerous restaurants and businesses that remind me of old-fashioned mercantiles and hardware stores.

Since we were there on a Sunday, there were lots of vendors lining the streets. You could buy anything from  “elotes asados” (roasted corn on the cob), assorted fruits, “tortillas de azúcar” (sweet flour tortillas)  and “Morelianas” (sweet toasted flour tortillas) and the town’s specialties: home made candies and “Pegoste” (meaning glue or sticky fruit conserves, along with flavoured “rompopes” (eggnogs). The owners of the stalls are as colourful as their food, often offering a taste of everything they are selling just to get you to buy their specialties - and take it from me: it works - I could not resist buying some "cajeta" (milk caramel) and "pegoste de durazno" (peach fruit conserves)! 

We wandered the streets, visiting old homes and hotels, asking to see the rooms just for the fun of it, until we made our way to Los Girasoles, the business of Pedro and Celina’s old friend Genny Cisneros.  Los Girasoles is a beautiful store and Restaurant Bar  located just off the main plaza, and after browsing the eclectic selection of items for sale, we made our way to the restaurant.  Comfy “equipales” (leather and wooden chairs and tables, had crafted in Tlaquepaque) line the inner patio beside the bar, while bigger tables grace the larger rooms just off the kitchen.

Genny sat down with us and she suggested we start with "Barranca", a kind of tequila made with a wild agave.  This particular Barranca was made by a friend of hers right in Tapalpa, and he still makes it the old- fashioned way, in a pit dug in the ground used as an oven.  This Barranca had a smoky taste and it was quite smooth and pleasant tasting.  I sipped it along with one of the best Sangritas I’ve ever had. Then came the “Botana Girasol”, a sampler of Tapalpa specialties including “Guacamole”, “Pico de Gallo” (bird’s beak salsa), “Hongos Girasol” (mushrooms sautéed with onions and garlic), “Panela Oreado” (fresh cow’s milk cheese that has been aired until it forms a thick skin, so it’s a bit hard on the outside and wonderfully soft on the inside), “Frijoles con Chorizo y Chile” (mashed beans with chorizo and chile) and “Coachala” (finely shredded chicken on a chile-masa sauce), all served with crunchy “tostadas” (toasted corn tortillas).

Good food, good conversation and wonderful company made the meal memorable, and after we left we wandered around for a while just enjoying our surroundings. Genny’s words are quite fitting for this outing: “The beauty of sharing something wonderful with another person is that it becomes twice as beautiful”. My outing with my aunts and uncle was definitely twice as meaningful because I spent time with family and I will remember it as a special day for a long, long time.  Next time you find yourself in Guadalajara, make your way to Tapalpa and maybe you will spend a day as special as I did.


Sangrita de Genny
Los Girasoles, Tapalpa, Jalisco

1 L orange juice
2 cans V8 juice
3 Tbsp white vinegar
1/2 cup lime juice
1 oz vodka
3/4 cup Valentina hot sauce
1/4 tsp salt (or to taste)
1/4 tsp freshly ground black pepper

Combine all the ingredients in a pitcher and chill in the fridge.  It will last refrigerated quite a long time.  Drink along with Tequila.

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A tiny bit of Mexico City:
Bazaar de San Angel, Frida Kahlo’s house and Castillo de Chapultepec
Saturday, June 25, 2005

My tour included the Bazaar de San Angel, Frida’s House in Coyoacán and el Castillo de Chapultepec. My companion for the day was Alfredo, and he was the most amazing tour guide!  He took me for a drive down Avenida Reforma and Insurgentes, two big avenues that criss-cross Mexico City.  As we drove down the streets he pointed out what the different buildings were, and painted a picture of old Mexico in the process.

We arrived at what used to be the town of San Angel around 10 AM.  Alfredo told me that in the times of the conquest, the town of San Angel was populated by the Spanish nobility that came to Mexico. The town was built on a hill - the cobble stone streets still retain their character.  Houses are beautiful mansions in the Colonial style, with thick walls, tiled roofs, arches, and inner patios. Nowadays San Angel’s plaza has become the meeting place of dozens of artists that set up shop on the weekends to sell their paintings, at the “Bazaar del Sábado” (Saturday Bazaar).  Across the street, and up a bit in another small park, the rest of the arts and crafts booths set up shop.  You can find anything from silver jewellery, leather items, shawls and antiques, textiles and ceramics, and of course, fruit stalls and food vendors. The streets were lined with houses turned into decorating stores, full of beautiful furniture, artwork, ceramics and knick-knacks.  There are also quite a few wonderful restaurants, ranging from the traditional Mexican to the super healthy, all-natural variety.

Right beside the entrance to the beautiful Parroquia de San Jacinto (the church), there was a woman making what looked like miniature sugar tortillas. She was cooking them on a tiny “comal” (griddle), set on a small brazier fueled by coals.  I was curious and asked what they were, and she said they were “Tortitas de Masa” (little corn dough cookies) – of course we had to try them!  The ingredients, we were told, were corn “masa”, butter, shortening, egg, and sugar.  We ate them as they came off the griddle and they were nice and warm, not overly sweet and very tender.  There were flecks of orange on them and we asked several times what that was, but she insisted that it was just the “masa” - we thought she just didn’t want to give away her secrets! She wrapped them first in a square of plastic and then in colourful tissue so she could then roll it up and close them tight to make her display.  There were 8 cookies for 10 pesos, so that is about 80¢ - great deal!

After our cookies, we walked down the street a bit and came across 3 ladies making “Gorditas” and “Huaraches”, one of them was making them with white corn masa and the other two were making them with blue corn masa.  Funny, but Veronica and Marlen, the ones with the blue masa seemed to be the ones selling out, and you always have to go where there are the most customers - that has to be the best place!  Mexico City flavours include “chicharrón” (pork rind), “requeson” (ricotta-like cheese), “queso de Oaxaca” (Oaxacan string cheese) and “haba” (fava bean puree).  The “gorditas” reminded me very much of the Salvadorean "Pupusas", but the fillings are very different and the Mexican versions are topped with grated Panela cheese, chopped onion and the ever present red or green salsa.  We ordered “gorditas de chicharrón” and while we were waiting for them to cook on the  large “comal” - over a brazier fueled with coal - we struck up a conversation with the girls. The hot topic of the day was politics, since elections for governor for the State of Mexico were coming up the next week. Oh, that is what the real Mexico is about… standing on the sidewalk, having a spirited conversation and enjoying the best street food! The “gordita” was hot, tender and very flavourful. They just give it to you in a square of paper and off you go – it tasted like heaven!

After that totally satisfying lunch we made our way back to the car and headed for Coyoacán, what used to be another town in Colonial times, but this one not as rich as San Angel, so houses were not as grand there.  Our destination was Frida Kahlo’s house, called “La Casa Azul”, which has been a museum since her death in 1954.  I recognized the place even before we got there, because of its distinctive blue walls. The house is set in a street corner at Londres #247, and you have to go through the courtyard to get to the house.  The outside walls are painted a bright blue with bright pink and yellow.  I just love those colours – so Mexican!  The first two rooms in the house used to be the living room and dining room and now house part of the painting collections of Frida, her husband Diego Rivera and several other artists.  From these rooms you go into the kitchen, which is still furnished the way it was in Frida’s time.  It’s a beautiful traditional Mexican kitchen, complete with tiled wood stoves, lots of clay pots and the walls decorated with tiny clay pitchers spelling the names of Frida and Diego. From off the kitchen you go up to the second level, where Diego and Frida had their studios and bedrooms – here you see the bed where she spent so many months after her many surgeries and the brightly decorated cast she wore for so long.  Walls of windows house their original drafting tables and instruments.
The house reflects Frida’s eccentric personality, with eclectic decoration and architectural style.  There is a spacious garden which now houses a restaurant and souvenir shop, but if you close your eyes, you can picture yourself sitting there, perhaps sipping tequila during one of Frida’s famous parties!

From Coyoacán we headed to “el Castillo de Chapultepec” (Chapultepec Castle), which now houses the “Museo Nacional de Historia” (National History Museum).  Located on top of the "Cerro del Chapulín" (Grasshopper Hill), the castle began its colourful life as a residence for the local Viceroys in the late 1700’s, but was never inhabited.  In 1841-43, it became the Military College, and it was then that it suffered the assault of the U.S. troops in 1847. In 1863 it was transformed into the home of emperors Maximilian and Carlota Amalia of Austria, during the French occupation when the young monarchs went to Mexico thinking it would be their dream realm. After Carlota’s return to Europe and Maximilian’s unfortunate demise in front of a firing squad, it became the home to Mexico’s presidents, and continued in that role until the time of Porfirio Díaz, Mexico’s dictator at the time of the Revolution, when he was forced to flee the country in disgrace.

In 1939 the castle became property of the “people” and it now houses impressive collections of carriages, furniture, clothing, dishes and personal items of its occupants; you can tour the hallways, patios and gardens in a leisurely manner.  The top floor has an impressive garden; there is also an amazingly beautiful stained glass mural depicting 5 Greek godesses - this mural was cut and assembled in Paris by the house Ch. Campigneulle, and then shipped in pieces to Mexico in 1900. The covered terraces on the top floor are used now for events, and that day I was lucky to see the Mexican Philharmonic Orchestra performing classical Mexican music, which was very appropriate to the location. If I closed my eyes I could very well picture myself waltzing in the ballroom of the castle during Porfirio Díaz’s time, when he tried so hard to bring Mexico to the standards of Europe – “la época de oro de Mexico” (Mexico’s golden age). Unfortunately for him, that was precisely the reason why Mexicans revolted into a bloody war, demanding equality for everyone.
The castle is divided in two parts, the residential wing (called the Alcázar) and the history museum wing (called the Castillo). From its terraces, you get an impressive view of the city. And there are extensive parks and sites of interest in what is the Chapultepec Complex – something for everyone to see. It is certainly worth your while to visit if you go to Mexico’s capital!

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A Great Opportunity Arises.
Ottawa, June 20, 2005

A couple of weeks ago I received an invitation from the Embassy of Mexico to apply for a spot on the 25 Jornada Informativa del IME: Programa Trinacional de la Gastronomía Mexicana (Tri-national Program on Mexican Gastronomy), involving Mexicans passionate about food living in Canada and the U.S. It was the last day of the contest and I had to send my application and biographical profile the day I found out about the Jornada!

I was fortunate to be chosen to be among the 45 people attending and I'm going to Mexico City from June 26-30. The agenda is full of interesting seminars on Mexican Gastronomy; from corn cookery, chile cookery, indigenous cookery, regional cookery, to Slow Food in Mexico, etc. There will be numerous talks and visits to restaurants along with tequila and mezcal tastings... Oh, who wouldn't want this job?

The goal of the Jornada is to go to Mexico, learn about gastronomy, meet people in the industry and establish contacts so that we can come back home and help the Embassy organize a Gastronomic Week to take place sometime this fall. This event will happen simultaneously in every city where there is a Mexican Consulate or Embassy in Canada and the United States. Guess what I'll be doing after I get back? I will keep you posted on developments.

After the Jornada I will be taking some time off for myself to tour Mexico and visit interesting places related to food. I will be writing about my travels and posting the articles on the website, so if you want to follow along, please check the website starting the first week of July. I will be traveling from Mexico City to Guadalajara, Tequila, Monterrey, Parras, and Cancún, before coming back home.

Stay tuned - I will tell you all about my travels on these pages Check back often!
If you have any questions or comments, please drop me a line at maria@theculturalkitchen.com.

 

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