Huaraches are the biggest Antojitos, and really delicious!

A while back, I posted a photo of the huaraches I learned to make from my Nana, in Monterrey, and at that time, a well known Mexican chef gave me grief telling me what I made was not a huarache as it was not a filled masa cake. 

You see, the huaraches in Mexico City (and other parts of Mexico) have a filling of beans, whereas in other parts of Mexico, the masa is cooked like a thick oblong tortilla and then topped with beans, salsa and the rest of the toppings. Same ingredients, different method, but all delicious.

It is very obvious that as Mexico is a huge country, there will be variations of methods from region to region, and this is a perfect example of that fact. 

Having said that, there is no question that these bean filled Huaraches are delicious, and when you visit a market in Mexico City, you will invariably see the ladies making the biggest antojitos you have ever seen.

The word huarache is derived from the Purépecha word kwarachi,  which means sandal, and it perfectly describes the shape and size of these treats! In the markets you will find the same bean fillings, made with different coloured masas, the toppings could be chorizo, shredded chicken, or thinly sliced steak, but always garnished with lettuce, salsa, cheese, crema and radishes.

This huarache in the photo is made with blue bolita Belatove maize I nixtamalized and ground into masa, but at home you can use the commonly found Maseca to make yours.

Whether you make the recipe with the beans inside the masa or on top like my Nana’s, you can be assured these will fly and will transport you to the markets of Mexico.

Huaraches de Frijoles con Chorizo
Bean Filled Masa Cakes with Chorizo

2 cups Maseca
1/2 tsp salt (optional)
1 Tbsp manteca (rendered lard) or shortening
2 - 2 1/2 cups warm water as needed for masa
200g Mexican chorizo
1 cup seasoned cooked pinto or black beans, drained
1/2 Tbsp chipotle chiles in adobo
1/4 cup manteca or vegetable oil
1 cup of your favourite salsa
3 cups shredded iceberg lettuce
1/2 cup grated cotija or feta cheese
2-3 radishes, thinly sliced
1/2 cup crema, or sour cream thinnned with a bit of milk
Cilantro leaves for garnish

In medium bowl, combine maseca, salt and lard. Slowly start adding warm water and knead until you have a smooth pliable dough. You may not need the full amount of water so start adding it slowly and only add what you need. Cover and reserve while you prepare the chorizo and beans.

In medium skillet, cook chorizo - you may not need any oil, depending on the chorizo you have. If you find it’s dry, add a tiny bit of vegetable oil to cook it, crumbling as you stir. It should be completely crumbled, and won’t take too long to cook, about 5 minutes. Reserve.

In blender or food processor, blend beans and chipotle chile. Mixture should be fairly dense, as they will be the filling for the huaraches. If they are too thick, add a bit of water, but make sure they are not runny.

Preheat comal, cast iron griddle or pan over medium heat. Divide masa into 8 portions. Line your board with a piece of plastic (a cut out resealable bag works great). Make an elongated shape with your masa and hold it in your hand. Make a dent in the centre and fill with about 2 tsp bean paste. Enclose the filling with the edges of the dough and gently roll into the cigar shape again. 

Place dough on plastic and gently start pressing it as you stretch it with the palm of your hand. Continue to pat it down and stretching until your huarache is about 1/4” thick. It should have an oval shape and it will be about 12cm long.

Gently flip huarache with the plastic onto your hand. Peel off the plastic and transfer to the hot comal, gently laying it down onto hot surface.

Cook for 2 minutes and using a spatula, flip to cook the other side, another two minutes or until lightly browned. Continue with the rest of your huaraches. Place them on a rack as they come off the griddle. This can be made in advance.

To finish your huaraches, heat lard or oil in skillet and pan fry for 2-3 minutes per side, making sure they are crisped and warmed through.

Remove to a plate lined with paper towels to absorb some of that oil, then transfer to plates and spread with salsa and garnish with lettuce, chorizo, cheese, radishes, crema and cilantro.

Makes 8.

Just like eating in a Mexican market.

I don’t know anyone who says: I want enmoladas, so I have to make mole. Mole is an occasion in and of itself and when one makes it, it is for enjoying it the way it was meant to be enjoyed - as a celebration (find my recipe and  blog post about mole a couple of posts back). Invariably and fortuitously, though, when you take the time to make mole, there are leftovers and that is when this dish comes in. 

Enmoladas de Pollo are a type of enchilada and these are some of the most luxurious of all.  Of course, it all starts with the mole, but most moles work well in this recipe, all except perhaps the slightly sweeter Manchamanteles. So please, next time you find yourself with leftover mole, allow me to show you what you must make with it.

The makings of this dish are only a handful of ingredients: mole (if you don’t have time to make it, you can use commercial mole for these), corn tortillas, shredded chicken (leftover rotisserie chicken works great here), some cotija or feta cheese, crema, radishes and onions. Make it pretty with a garnish of cilantro and that’s that. 

Looking at the recipe, what you may think is an obscene amount of mole on your plate turns out to be just the right amount to complement the tortillas and filling. An artful drizzle of crema, grated cheese and some crunchy toppings and you have a dish that will transport you to the markets of Mexico in one second flat.

Really, it’s that good! Sophisticated and humble all at once, but so satisfying and delicious you will always make sure you have extra mole just so you can make them again and again.

Enmoladas de Pollo
Chicken Mole Enchiladas

2 1/2-3 cups mole sauce
2-3 Tbsp vegetable oil
6 corn tortillas
1 1/2 cups shredded cooked chicken
1/4 cup crema, crème fraîche or sour cream thinned with a bit of milk
2-3 Tbsp grated cotija or feta cheese
1 radish, very thinly sliced
2 Tbsp very thinly sliced white onion
A few cilantro leaves

In small saucepan, warm up mole sauce. If it’s too thick, add a bit of chicken stock or water to thin it out - it should be just thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Keep it warm while you fill tortillas.

Heat oil in small frying pan. Soft fry tortillas one at a time, about 20 seconds per side. They should remain soft and pliable, so make sure you don’t fry them too long. Transfer to paper towels to drain. While still hot, place 1/4 cup chicken in each tortilla and roll up tightly. Place on tray seam side down and continue until all tortillas are fried and filled.

When you’re ready to serve, ladle some mole on the bottom of two plates. Place three filled tortillas (seam side down) over sauce and then cover with more mole. Garnish with cheese, radishes and cilantro leaves. Drizzle with crema and enjoy immediately!

Serves 2.

Aguachiles are perfect for sunny weather.

The weather is starting to get nicer up here in Ottawa, and as the sun starts to stick around more, all I want to eat is fresh, tangy, spicy seafood. It must be the promise of summer and warmer weather that gives me the yearning for this kind of food.

Enter this light and flavourful aguachile. I have posted another recipe for a black aguachile made with steak (check it out, it’s delicious!), but I love this one because of the seafood. The literal translation for aguachile is chile water, and a runny spicy liquid it is. This one relies on the citrus and chiles, but adds the umami of soy sauce, Worcestershire and Maggi seasoning.

If I lived on the coast and I had fresh-out-of-the-water seafood, I would not marinate this aguachile for more than 5 minutes, but since all I have available is frozen/thawed shrimp and scallops, it is best to let them chill in the sauce for about 30 minutes before assembling the finished dish. Regardless, you will have a stunning and delicious plate of goodness that needs to be consumed posthaste.

Try it out for yourself and let me know what you think. It may become one of your go-to seafood appetizers. Serve with corn tostadas and a beer. Perfectly perfect.

Aguachile Negro de Camarón y Callo de Hacha
Black Shrimp and Scallop Aguachile

1 1/3 cups freshly squeezed lime juice
3 Tbsp low sodium soy sauce
3 Tbsp liquid Maggi seasoning
1 Tbsp Worcestershire sauce
1-2 Serrano or Jalapeño chiles, chopped 
1-2 arbol chiles, crumbled
A few piquín chiles 
A bit of water to tone down the acidity of the sauce, if needed
250g 31-40 shrimp, thawed, peeled, deveined and butterflied
250g sea scallops, thawed, muscle removed and sliced in thirds horizontally
1 large avocado, peeled and sliced thin
1/2 English cucumber, sliced thin
1/4 red onion, sliced very thin
2-3 radishes, sliced very thin
Cilantro leaves for garnish
Salsa macha for garnish (optional)
Corn tostadas for serving

Place lime juice, soy sauce, Maggi seasoning, Worcestershire sauce, Serrano, árbol and piquín chiles in blender container. Process until completely smooth, and season with salt to taste. It should taste good on its own. If it’s too tangy, add a bit of water to tone the citrus down.

Place butterflied shrimp and sliced scallops in glass or non-reactive dish. Pour black sauce over seafood, stir, cover and refrigerate for 30 minutes.

While seafood is marinating, slice cucumber, red onion, radishes and avocado.
When the half hour has passed, grab a pretty platter and arrange cucumbers and avocados overlapping around edges. Place seafood and juice in the centre and garnish with red onion, radishes and cilantro leaves. Drizzle with salsa macha, if using.

Serve with corn tostadas.

Serves 2-4.

Mexico's iconic and most famous sauce.

Mole is the crown jewel of Mexican sauces. It is refined, delicious and has a complexity of flavour that demonstrates the real fusion of two cultures in one dish. Mole was created by our prehispanic ancestors, they would mix pumpkin seeds, tomatoes and herbs to make a sauce simply called Molli. This sauce was served with “guajolote” - wild turkey. It was used as a ceremonial dish and was often offered to the Gods.

When the Spanish arrived, they brought all manner of new spices and ingredients, and the molli that existed was then re-created to include these new ingredients and it became the Mole as we know it today. The most famous recipe is attributed to Sor Andrea de la Asunción, a nun in the convent of Santa Rosa in the city of Puebla, circa 1681. As the story goes, she is the one that created this “new” recipe, including the original dried chiles, pumpkin seeds, tomatoes and herbs, but adding onions, garlic, sesame seeds, black pepper, cinnamon, nutmeg, cumin, peanuts, pecans, etc.

Mole recipes vary, as with everything, from household to household. In Mexico, there is great debate as well between States, as Oaxaca is called the Land of the 7 Moles. So which one is the best and most delicious Mole? I think they are all delicious, all of them are slightly different, but they all carry a long history with them.

When I say the word Mole, most people think of “that chocolate sauce”. Nothing could be further from the truth! Some of the moles do indeed have chocolate as an ingredient, as with Mole Poblano or this Mole Colorado, but the chocolate is only added at the end and is not meant to be noticeable, it is meant to be a finishing touch.

As with many Mexican dishes, when we are making a mole, we do not want to be able to pick out any one single ingredient or flavour - the sauce has to be a true blend that tastes heavenly, without giving out hints of specific ingredients. And the chocolate? Well, the chocolate adds a subtle sweetness that works wonderfully well with the heat or smoke of the chiles.

Mole is a work of art, and the longer it cooks, the better it gets. Making mole is a long process, but by no means difficult. If you feel like tackling this recipe, you will be rewarded with the most velvety, flavourful, complex sauce that can be used in many ways. The most typical, of course, is served with roast chicken or turkey, but it makes delicious Enmoladas or tamales.

This recipe is my version of Mole Colorado. Thanks to modern appliances, it can be made in less than two hours, so gather your ingredients, put some music on and make a pot of Mexican historical gastronomy.

MOLE COLORADITO
Red Mole

8 ancho chiles, stemmed, seeded and de-veined
6 guajillo chiles, stemmed, seeded and de-veined
3 large plum tomatoes
1 large onion, chopped into large chunks
8 garlic cloves, unpeeled
2 ½ Tbsp rendered lard or vegetable oil
1/3 cup raw pecans
1/3 cup raw peanuts
1/4 cup raw sesame seeds 
1 Tbsp Mexican oregano
8 whole black peppercorns
1” piece canela (Mexican cinnamon) 
4 whole cloves
4-5 cups chicken or vegetable stock
Salt to taste
Sugar to taste
60g Mexican chocolate, or more to taste
Protein or vegetable of your choice, poached or roasted

Toast chiles on a dry griddle or skillet, taking care not to burn them, and then soak them in very hot water for about 30 minutes, or until they’re completely soft.

On griddle, roast the tomatoes, onion and garlic, turning often, until soft and blackened.

Meanwhile, heat 1 tsp lard on a frying pan and sauté pecans and peanuts.  When they are golden, add the sesame seeds, oregano, peppercorns, cinnamon and cloves and sauté for another minute. Remove from pan and cool.

Place soft chiles and just enough soaking chile water in a blender to process until completely smooth. Pass mixture through a sieve or food mill if needed - there should not be any skins visible. Set aside. 

Blend the tomatoes, roasted and peeled garlic, onions, pecans, peanuts, sesame seeds, oregano, peppercorns, cinnamon and cloves. Pass mixture through a sieve or food mill if needed, mixture should be completely smooth.

In Dutch oven or heavy pot, heat 2 Tbsp lard and cook chile mixture for about 10 minutes, it should be thick. Add the tomato and spice blend after that. Let mixture simmer, uncovered, until slightly reduced (a splatter screen is helpful here to save your stove from a huge mess).

Add 2 cups stock and a bit of salt and sugar - you will re-season later on, so don’t salt heavily at first. Cook 60 minutes and up to 2 hours, stirring often to make sure it doesn’t stick, adding more stock as it gets thick. This process of reducing and adding more stock can go on as long as you want. The longer it cooks, the deeper the flavours will be.

Add chocolate and stir to dissolve. Adjust salt seasoning at this point. Cook another 15 minutes, until it’s thick enough to coat the back of a spoon.  Serve with protein of your choice and roasted vegetables.

Leftover Mole can be frozen.
Serves 12.

Something Sweet for Valentine's Day

Let me start by saying I am not the sappy, romantic kind. Valentine’s Day is, for me, more of a marketing scheme than anything. If we do a bit of research, the legend of St. Valentine is not too clear. Whether it originated in ancient Rome with the celebration of Lupercalia, or in the Middle Ages England and France, where St. Valentine became the patron saint of the day, in the end, it became the date associated with romance and sweethearts, the day to exchange love notes and send flowers. For me, the marketing behind it is excessive, and I shy away from any commercial kind of gimmick, preferring instead, to show my love and appreciation every day of the year.

Having said that, let me say that I love chocolate, and I have no qualms in making something sweet to share with my loved ones. This is how this recipe came about. You know I am a traditionalist at heart, I love everything Mexican and I love making food using the most Mexican of ingredients.

Cacao originated in southern Mexico (or the general area, depending on who you ask!), and so did vanilla. Tequila is our most iconic spirit, and chiles are native to Mexico as well. Why not put all these ingredients together to make something sweet, seductive and delicious?

Of course you can make truffles using only chocolate and cream, but the addition of these ingredients make a truly special treat. It helps to know the flavour profile of chiles, and the taste of pasillas (or even anchos) complements this cacao in a spectacular way. Another ingredient you could add to this truffle is Mexican canela - you could omit the tequila and add the canela instead. As with everything, you can play around with the recipe and find the flavour combination you like.

In these pandemic times, it may be a bit difficult to procure all these special ingredients, so if you only have bittersweet chocolate, plain tequila, regular vanilla or cinnamon, go ahead and use that! Make it your own and most of all, I hope you enjoy the process and the result. Happy un-Valentine’s Day!

Trufas de Chocolate Mexicano
Mexican Chocolate Truffles

225g Cacao Barry 66% Single Origin Mexico chocolate (about 1 1/2 cups)
7 Tbsp whipping cream
1 Tbsp Patrón XO Café coffee liqueur 
Seeds scraped from ½ vanilla bean
1 tsp pure ground pasilla (or ancho) chile (optional)
Pinch sea salt
2-4 Tbsp cocoa powder

Place chocolate in a medium bowl.

In small saucepan, place cream, coffee liqueur, vanilla bean seeds and ground chile. Bring to a very gentle simmer and immediately pour into the chocolate bowl. Let mixture sit for 5-8 minutes, to allow the chocolate to soften.

Add salt and whisk to combine - make sure chocolate is completely melted and smooth. If lumps remain, put bowl over a pan of gently simmering water and stir until chocolate is melted completely.

Place bowl in fridge for about 40-60 minutes, to allow mixture to harden somewhat.

Using small ice cream scoop or spoon, portion into small balls. With gloved hands, smooth out chocolate balls - it’s ok for them to have some grooves.

Place cocoa powder in small bowl and toss chocolate balls in cocoa powder.

Refrigerate truffles until completely firm.

Makes about 24 truffles.

Beating the February blues with some green food!

I don’t know about you, but where I am in Canada, by the time February comes around, I am in real need of some fresh, green food. Though this winter has been relatively mild, it has been long enough and I yearn for warmer days that mean fresher, greener food. I know, I know, I can eat these things during winter, but when it’s cold outside, the body craves hearty, rich food, and that has been the norm for a few months. By the time February rolls in, it’s time to shake things up a bit!

What can be greener and fresher than an avocado? Mexicans have a deep love affair with the green, rich, buttery gems. There is no meal in Mexico that does not include at least 1/4 of an avocado, simply sliced and placed inside a fresh corn tortilla - pure bliss. And no party is complete without a green bowl of guacamole.

There are so many ways to make guacamole… the word itself derives from the Náhuatl “ahuacamolli”, from “ahuacatl” (avocado) and “molli” (sauce), so put them together and it simply means avocado sauce (the word “molli” is also the origin of the word mole). The traditional guacamole most people know is a combination of mashed avocado and a pico de gallo and that is super delicious, but sometimes I feel like changing things up a bit.

As it happens, I had some goat cheese and whipping cream in the fridge, so I put them together to make this fresh, tangy and delicious guac. If you would like it spicy, you can definitely add a bit of Jalapeño, but today I kept things mild. This comes together super fast, and if you have a stick blender, use it for this - it makes cleanup a snap! This is a thick guacamole, so stick a blender or food processor will work better than a regular blender.

It makes a great dip for crudités, you can spread it on your favourite sourdough bread and top with a poached egg for an awesome avocado toast, or you can make a super fresh veggie tostada as I have done here. Simply spread thickly on a corn tostada and top with shredded lettuce, sliced tomatoes, radishes and cilantro. A sprinkle of sea salt and a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil and you will be in heaven. Just what I need on this snowy February Sunday.

GUACAMOLE con QUESO DE CABRA
Goat Cheese Guacamole

3 medium ripe avocados
½ cup plain goat cheese
5 Tbsp whipping cream
½ cup chopped cilantro
Juice of 1 lime
Salt to taste

Dice avocados and place in blender container. Add goat cheese, cream, lime juice and salt.
Using a stick blender or food processor, process until smooth.
Add cilantro and process again.
Adjust seasoning and serve.

Makes about 3 cups.

La Candelaria, a great reason to make Tamales!

Mexico is a deeply religious country, and we honour our traditions exceptionally. Such is the case of La Candelaria (Day of the Virgin of La Candelaria, on February 2, otherwise known as Candlemas in English). This celebration comes to us via the Día de Reyes, or Epiphany on January 6. On Día de Reyes, families get together to cut the Rosca de Reyes (3 Kings Cake), which has a figurine of a baby Jesus inside. The person that cuts the piece of the bread and gets the figurine is supposed to host a party on La Candelaria and make tamales. Yes, it's a great tradition, filled with symbolism, but it's also a perfect excuse to get your family (and friends) together again and celebrate with great food, don't you think?

In reality, the person who gets the figurine is torn between excitement (if you're deeply religious, getting the figurine means that Jesus is in your heart) and dread (if you're NOT deeply religious it means you have to make hundreds of tamales for a party less than a month away!).

In my small family, my daughter Alexa seems to always get the baby figurine, except this time I was the lucky one. That means I will be the one making tamales. I don't mind at all, because we LOVE tamales, so much so that even when Alexa gets the baby I’m the one making the tamales. Here in Ottawa tamales are a rare foodstuff, since they are not readily available to purchase as in Mexico or the United States. Over here, we need to make our own. And make our own we do!

Tamales are a bit of a production, and I recommend you tackle the job in phases. One day you can make the fillings, and the next day you make the tamales. I also recommend you make a double or triple batch so you can freeze leftovers - you will be happy to have them weeks later, trust me. This is a perfect weekend project, one that you can enlist your family to participate in. It will be fun and you will spend some quality time together. Unfortunately this year with the pandemic, I will be alone making them, so I won’t be making hundreds, just enough for us to enjoy on February 2.

When you are ready to eat your tamales, serve them with a couple of spectacular salsas, some refried beans and have some crema for drizzling over the top. It is also customary to serve them with some sort of atole, and I favour the chocolate atole called Champurrado. You will be enjoying one of the best Mexican meals ever!

TAMALES De POLLO EN SALSA VERDE
Chicken in Green Salsa Tamales

For the dough:
1 kg fresh masa, or 3 ½ cups Maseca mixed with enough warm water to make a smooth dough
1 ¼ cups rendered lard, softened
1 ½ tsp baking powder
1 1/4 Tbsp Diamond Crystal Kosher salt, less if you use table salt or sea salt
1 cup chicken stock 

Filling:
Chicken in Salsa Verde (recipe below), about 4 cups, or any filling of your choice
Corn husks for wrapping

Soak corn husks in hot water for 90-120 minutes, weighed down with a plate and a couple of cans, keeping them submerged in the water, until soft and pliable. You can also soak them overnight. Drain just before filling tamales.

In mixer bowl combine lard, baking powder and salt. Set speed to medium and beat until light and fluffy. Add the masa little by little, and then reduce the speed and add the stock. Beat for about 10 minutes and spoon about 1/2 tsp dough and drop it into a glass of cold water. If it floats, the dough is ready, if not, beat a few more minutes. Taste dough for salt and add more if needed. Dough should be heavily seasoned because as the tamales steam, some of that salt will dissolve into the cooking water.

Spread some dough in the bottom half of each husk (away from the pointy end), no thicker than a generous 1/8”. Spoon 2-3 Tbsp filling in the centre of the dough and then fold both sides over the filling. To finish, fold in the pointy end. Secure tamales with string of corn husk. 

Place tamales open sides up in steamer basket lined with corn husk scraps .  Do not stack tamales.  Cover tamales with more corn husk scraps and then place the lid on the steamer.  Bring the water to a gentle boil and steam for 1 to 1 1/4 hours, or until the corn husk comes away from the dough easily and the dough is firm. To be able to check this, remove one tamal from the steamer and let it cool for 1-2 minutes before you open it to check. Start checking around the 60 minute mark, but they could need another 15 minutes, depending on the size of your tamales. When they are ready, they will release from the husk easily.

Serve with Salsa of your choice, and if you want, you can drizzle them with crema.
Tamales can be frozen and reheated by steaming or toasting on the comal.

POLLO EN SALSA VERDE
Chicken in Salsa Verde for Tamales

10-15 medium tomatillos, husked
1 small onion
1 clove garlic
1/2 bunch cilantro
1 tsp vegetable oil 
Salt to taste
3 cups cooked shredded chicken

Wash tomatillos and place in a saucepan with onion and garlic. Add enough water to cover and cook 10 minutes (if using canned tomatillos, omit this step), or until vegetables are soft.  

Place softened tomatillos, onion, garlic and cilantro in blender and process until completely smooth.  Heat oil in saucepan and add salsa and salt (if using canned tomatillos, you may not need to add salt). Cook for 10 minutes, or until seasoned well.

Mix chicken with enough salsa to moisten, but the filling should not be too moist.
Cool down filling before using it for tamales.

 Makes about 24-30 tamales, depending on how large you make them.

Pumpkin Empanadas are delicious!

As days, months and years go by with this pandemic I get more and more homesick. I dream of the day when I will be able to go back home to visit my family, but also so I can go and enjoy all those things I cannot get over here. Every time I go back to my hometown of Monterrey, I have a great time eating everything and anything my little heart desires. All this time being away has given me huge cravings, but more of a longing to enjoy all those delicious treats.

Every time I go home, I must visit my favorite panadería, where the best sweet bread and pastries are found. I have to buy a variety including conchas and orejas, but I absolutely have to have Empanadas de Calabaza.

A specialty of North-eastern Mexico, let me tell you - these little empanadas are addictive! Not too sweet and deliciously flaky, an empanada or two makes for a very enjoyable treat - morning, noon or night.

Every town has their way of making these empanadas, starting with cooking the pumpkin with piloncillo, the raw sugar that has that sweet molasses taste. Most cooks flavour their pumpkin with canela and aniseed, but some use cloves as well. There are also versions of the dough that have yeast, but the most traditional do not have it.

You can make these Empanadas with canned pumpkin, if you don't have the inclination of cooking the pumpkin first, and butternut squash puree makes a really good substitute. If you use either of these, your empanadas will still be absolutely delicious and the perfect accompaniment of an afternoon cup of coffee or tea.

Empanadas de Calabaza
Pumpkin Empanadas

Pastry:
3 1/4 cups flour

2 tsp baking powder

½ tsp salt

½  cup butter, chilled well and cut into 1/2 inch pieces

½ cup vegetable shortening

2/3 cup (or more) ice cold water

Filling:
2 ½ cup cooked pumpkin puree (canned is acceptable)
¾ - 1 cup chopped piloncillo or dark brown sugar
1 Tbsp ground Mexican canela
¼ cup ground cloves or ground aniseed

In small saucepan, mix pumpkin puree, piloncillo, canela and cloves and heat over medium heat. Cook until pumpkin is very dry, about 5 minutes. Spread out on a plate and let cool completely before filling empanadas.

For pastry, mix flour, baking powder and salt in a bowl. Cut in shortening and butter until mixture resembles coarse meal. Add just enough cold water for the dough to come together and form a ball. Knead until smooth. Let rest 10-15 minutes.

Preheat oven to 350°F. On a lightly floured board roll pastry to 1/8-inch thickness. Using a 5 to 6 inch cutter, cut out rounds. Spoon about 2 Tbsp of the filling in centre of each round. Fold pastry in half and seal edges, crimping with a fork. Bake on ungreased baking sheet for 18-25 minutes, or until golden brown on the bottom. Let cool on rack.

 Makes about 36 empanadas.

Snacking Salsa..... what is that?

As many of you know, I live in Canada. In normal times, I would travel back home at least once a year, and if I was lucky, twice a year. With this pandemic, travel has unfortunately come to a grinding halt, and I have not been back home for almost two years now! Obviously, I am extremely homesick and miss my family terribly, but almost on par with that, I miss the food supplies I bring back with me every time I go back home.

Amongst those supplies, is a brand of salsa called Botanera. Salsa Botanera is made right in Monterrey, and it is by far my most favourite brand of bottled salsa in the whole wide world. That is not a statement I make lightly! Everyone that knows me will tell you I am “exigente”, or what you would know as demanding, picky or exacting. Now, that does not mean that I don’t like all kinds of stuff, and if you put food in front of me I will gladly eat it, but in terms of what I REALLY like, I admit I am a bit particular. This salsa is one of those things. No other bottled salsa is like Botanera for me. The taste is spicy, sour, salty… all those things I love. I can say the Mexican palate craves that - hot, sour and salty. And when it comes to snacking, those are the flavours we want.

To understand this concept, you have to know that Mexicans as a culture love snacking. Anything that will tide you over until the big meal is a welcome thing. These afternoon snacks are for the most part healthy, like munching on mango, carrot and jícama sprinkled with powdered chile and lime juice, or sliced oranges with the same topping. But… there is another kind of snacking that we absolutely love, that is more on the less healthy side - tostadas, chips or peanuts doused in salsa, lime juice and salt. You cannot possibly understand this, but the thought of those ingredients make our mouths water. There is nothing like it! We grow up with these flavours and they are imbedded in our DNA, I swear!

So….  all this to say that since I have not been able to go home in so long, my supply of Salsa Botanera is almost gone, so in an act of utter desperation, I have created this recipe. I made it a few times to get it to where I want it to be and it is pretty darn close to the commercial kind. I am very pleased with the results and the best thing is I know exactly what’s in it.

I have added a couple of notes after the recipe if you wish to make this less spicy or to allow for substitutions. In any case, this salsa is not for the faint hearted, as it is spicy, but give it a try and I hope you enjoy it. Then grab some tostadas, rub with lime juice and top with some salsa and a sprinkle of salt. You will feel like a Mexican after one bite!

Salsa Botanera

30g chile de árbol - approx. 50 chiles
1 chile guajillo
2 Tbsp whole chile piquín 
1 1/2 Tbsp kosher salt, or more to taste
3 cups water, divided
3/4 cup white vinegar
1/4 cup freshly squeezed lime juice
1 tsp onion powder
1 tsp garlic powder
4 tsp cornstarch 

Remove stems and seeds from half the arbol chiles (unless you want a very spicy salsa). Remove the stem and seeds from the guajillo chile. Place chiles de arbol, guajillo and piquín in medium saucepan with 2 cups of water and bring to a boil. Once it boils, turn the heat down to simmer and cook, covered, for 10 minutes. Allow to cool to lukewarm.

Remove chiles from water and place in blender jar. Measure your soaking liquid and add some more water to make 3 cups. Place in blender with rehydrated chiles. Add vinegar, lime juice, garlic powder and onion powder along with salt to the mixture. Blend until completely smooth.

Wash out the saucepan and place a sieve over it. Pour salsa through sieve and press on solids to strain salsa. Turn on the heat and bring the mixture to a boil. Make a slurry with ¼ cup water and the cornstarch and add to the boiling salsa. Whisk briskly and cook until salsa thickens somewhat. It will not be too thick, it will just not be runny. Taste for salt and adjust if necessary. Let cool completely and then pour into bottles.
Keep refrigerated.

* If you only have powdered piquín chile, then just add it to the mixture in the blender, do not cook it in the water.
* If you want to tame the spice even more, discard soaking liquid and add 3 cups fresh water to the blend, instead of using the chile soaking liquid.

Makes 1 litre.

Rosca de Reyes is a very special bread.

I am sharing with you today one of my favourite breads that is an essential part of one of my favourite traditions. The Epiphany is celebrated on January 6th, and with it comes this bread. There is a lot of symbolism associated with it, but without making this too long, I will abbreviate its meaning.

As the story goes, the Wise Men met baby Jesus on January 6th, so we celebrate the fact by sharing this bread. The round shape symbolizes God’s infinite love - with no beginning and no end. The dried fruit decorating the bread, symbolizes the jewels on the crowns of the Wise men (we call them the three kings), and the little doll hidden inside it, symbolizes the baby Jesus hiding from King Herod.

In Mexico, the tradition is that each guest chooses their piece of the bread and whomever gets the figurine, must host a tamal party for the Day of the Virgin of La Candelaria, on February 2nd. All around, it is a great food event!!

This recipe is not mine. It is Maestro Yuri de Gortari’s recipe and I share it with a lot of respect. Maestro Yuri passed away recently, and it is a great loss for us Mexicans. He was a great advocate for respecting our traditions and he was a generous teacher that loved sharing his knowledge with everyone. I always meant to go to Mexico City to take one of his courses, but I never got around to it. Though I know his school is still going, for me it would not be the same without him. Still, every time I make this recipe I think of him.

I have not altered the recipe at all, except for adapting it to making the bread in a mixer, not completely by hand as the Maestro liked to make it. I have also increased the amount of orange blossom water, because I really like it. The recipe makes one huge rosca, but I like to make 3 or 4 smaller ones instead, and share them with friends. It is a lot of fun to make, and if you want to see a step by step, you can find the process in my Instagram highlights.

Even though this recipe comes to you after January 6, you can be ready for next year! Traditionally we dunk the slices in a steaming mug of Mexican hot chocolate. Enjoy!

Rosca de Reyes
Three Kings Bread

Sponge:
15g dry yeast
½ tsp sugar
2 Tbsp flour (24g)
½ cup warm milk (75g)

Dough:
500g all purpose flour
125g granulated sugar
Pinch of salt
200g unsalted butter, at room temperature
3 large eggs (160g)
Zest of one large navel orange (6g)
1 tsp orange blossom water (5g)
7 egg yolks (120g)
Plastic dolls

Icing:
100g unsalted butter, softened
100g icing sugar
100g all purpose flour

Decoration: your choice of:
Quince paste strips
Candied red and green cherries
Crystalized figs
Chopped nuts
Granulated sugar
Nutella

1 egg, for egg wash 

For the Sponge: In small bowl, whisk yeast, sugar and flour. Add warm milk and mix until completely smooth. Set aside to proof, 10-15 minutes.

Start the Dough while sponge proofs: In the bowl of a stand mixer, combine flour, sugar, salt, butter, 3 eggs, orange zest, and orange blossom water. Using the dough hook, start mixing until the mixture comes together.

Add egg yolks and sponge and continue to mix until the dough no longer sticks to the sides of the bowl, 10-15 minutes.

Grease a large bowl and place dough in bowl, turning to grease all over. Cover with plastic wrap and let proof until triple in size - depending on the temperature of your kitchen it may take over 2 hours.

Make the icing while dough rests: In medium bowl, combine butter, icing sugar and flour. Work with your hands until the mixture comes together. Leave in a cool place until you need it (does not need to be refrigerated).

When dough is ready, punch it down and portion it into one, two, three or 4 pieces, as you wish. If you use the whole dough for one rosca, it will be very large. I like to make 4 smaller ones, they turn out as you see in the photo - enough for 4-6 people.

Using your hands, shape the dough into a large rope, then join ends by pinching dough together. Make a small incision underneath to insert the doll, pinching dough closed under doll. If you make one large rosca, insert two dolls. Place dough on parchment-covered sheet pans, if making 4 roscas, two will fit in a half sheet pan. I like to place something in the middle so the centres don’t close as they bake, you can use a small bowl or ramekin for this purpose. Let dough rise for 30 minutes.

When dough is ready, start decorating. Roll out icing into 1/8” thickness, cut into strips and place over roscas. Whatever space is left exposed without icing, brush with egg wash and sprinkle nuts or place strips of quince paste or dried fruits to decorate.

Bake at 345°F for 27-29 minutes, until golden brown and the bottoms sound hollow when tapped. If you have a thermometer, internal temperature should be around 210°F.

Remove roscas from oven and cool completely on racks before slicing. If you want, you can drizzle with Nutella before serving.

Serve with hot chocolate and enjoy!!

Champurrado is the coziest post-Christmas drink!

Mexicans have been drinking “atoles” for centuries. As you’ve heard me say many times, Corn is King, and atoles are yet another way to enjoy our most venerated food item.

Atoles are always warm drinks that are enriched (and by that I mean thickened) with corn masa. There are myriad flavours for atoles, from strawberry and vanilla to the chocolate version that becomes a Champurrado. Since atoles are warm drinks, they are more often prepared in the winter months, starting with the huge celebration of the Day of the Dead, leading up to Christmas and the coldest months of the year.

Regardless of the time of the year, atoles are nutritious, filling and comforting drinks, and when you add chocolate, well, it just goes to the next level of goodness. Very easy to make, you can make a large batch and keep it in the fridge for a few days and warm up a mug as you please.

Since it’s Christmas time, the most perfect accompaniment for a mug of Champurrado is a perfectly sweet and crispy buñuelo (recipe here in the blog as well).

The next time you have a craving for hot chocolate, why don’t you make some Champurrado? You will love it!
Happy Post-Holiday time!

CHAMPURRADO
Warm Corn Chocolate Atole

1/3 cup Maseca mixed in with enough warm water to make a soft dough (or 1/2 cup fresh masa)
90g Mexican chocolate, chopped or grated into small bits
1 3/4 cups milk
1-2 Tbsp sugar, or more to taste

In blender jar, combine masa with the chocolate and 3 cups water. Blend until smooth.

Strain into a medium saucepan, add the milk and sugar and set over medium heat. Stir or whisk constantly as the mixture thickens and comes to a slow simmer. Cook until it comes to the right consistency.
Atole should be the consistency of heavy cream. If it gets too thick, thin it with a bit more milk or water.
Enjoy with some Buñuelos!

Serves 4-6.

A comforting dish for a cold December day.

I have to say, one of my favorite foods in the world is corn. In my mind, Corn is King. When I travel in Mexico, corn is present in so many dishes that I feel comfort and satisfaction after every meal. My brain is always working, thinking of new ways to use the same ingredients that are part of our everyday foods, and that’s how this recipe came about. 

One of the commonly used sauces in Mexico is made with one of our most beloved chiles - poblanos are often paired with crema to make a very delicious and versatile sauce that can be served with pasta or chicken. In this recipe, we make linguine with an unusual topping of caramelized onions and fresh corn kernels, called esquites in Mexico.

This recipe can be made in steps, if you so wish. You can make the caramelized onions and esquites ahead of time, and then this dish can come together very fast on a busy weeknight. 

When we talk about “caramelizing” onions, we really have to take the time to do it properly, and it can take at the very least 30 minutes, but often closer to one hour or more, depending on the amount of onions you are cooking, and also how much attention you are putting on them. If you are constantly stirring and watching they don’t burn, you can do this a bit faster and on a higher flame, but if you leave them alone, you must cook them at a very low heat, and stir every few minutes to make sure they cook evenly and don’t burn. I like to add a pinch of sugar to help move the process along and help with browning, which is very desirable in this preparation. When the onions are starting to brown, remove some for the sauce and set aside. Add the corn kernels to the frying pan and cook together with the onions. This gives them a delicious flavor. When this mixture is done, it can be set aside until you are ready to make your sauce and finish your pasta.

The pasta sauce is very easy - blend roasted poblanos, the reserved caramelized onions, crema, jalapeños and cilantro. Heat this sauce in a saucepan and season to taste. When pasta is cooked to al dente, toss everything together. To serve, place a mound of pasta on your plate, and top with some of those delicious caramelized onions and esquites. Garnish with cotija cheese and cilantro and enjoy!

Pasta Poblana con Esquites
Poblano Pasta with Corn and Caramelized Onions

2 large white onions, thinly sliced
2 Tbsp vegetable oil or butter
½ tsp kosher salt
Pinch sugar

2 ears of corn, kernels shaved off
1 Tbsp vegetable oil
 
3 poblano chiles
½ cup caramelized onion
1 cup crema or crème fraîche
2 jalapeño or Serrano chiles, stemmed and roughly chopped
½ cup chopped cilantro
½ tsp kosher salt, or to taste
1 tsp canola or vegetable oil
400g linguine or linguini fini pasta 

Garnish:
½ cup cotija cheese (or mild feta)
Handful cilantro leaves

In large frying pan, heat 2 Tbsp oil. Add sliced onions and ½ tsp kosher salt and a pinch of sugar. Cook, over medium low heat, stirring often, until onions start to brown and are very soft, about 45 minutes. Remove ½ cup onions and reserve.

Add corn kernels to frying pan with onions and continue to cook until corn is starting to brown, about 10 minutes. Season with more salt if needed and reserve.

While onions are caramelizing, place whole poblano chiles on a tray under the broiler and cook, turning often, until well charred. Remove from oven and place in a bowl. Cover with a plate and steam for 8 minutes. When they are cool enough to handle, peel charred skin off, stem, seed and chop roughly.

In blender container place roasted poblano chunks, the reserved ½ cup caramelized onions, 1 cup crema, jalapeño or Serrano chiles and cilantro. If you have trouble blending, you may add 2-3 Tbsp milk. Blend until very smooth. 

In large frying pan (where you cooked the onions), heat 1 Tbsp oil. Pour poblano cream sauce and cook just until heated through. Season with salt if needed. Keep warm.

Meanwhile, bring 3 litres of water to a boil. Add a tsp of salt and cook pasta until al dente, following manufacturer’s instructions. Drain pasta and pour into the pan with the sauce. Toss until well coated and taste for a final seasoning.

Serve right away in bowls topped with some of the corn and onion mixture. Garnish with cotija cheese and cilantro. 

Serves 4.

The perfect dish for a mild winter day.

One of my favourite activities is to chat about food because I always learn something new. During one of my visits back home, I was talking with a friend who grew up in a small town just outside Monterrey. His family has lived there for generations.

As he reminisced about meals his Grandmother made at home, he told me about his favorite food and said he still makes some of those recipes today. One of them was this unusual beef and cabbage dish that he shared with me. It was so delicious that when I came back home I wanted to make it right away. I tried to follow his instructions and I have to say it turned out very, very good!

In the oral tradition of sharing recipes in Mexico, many times only ingredients and techniques are discussed, so it’s up to the listener to figure any given recipe out. After playing with this recipe a little bit, I came up with this version, and I love it because it is not only delicious and very easy to make, but most importantly, it is pretty darn close to my friend’s dish. The fact that this is an old recipe is also very appealing to me, as I like to think I’m helping preserve something precious. 

This recipe represents a common technique in Mexican cooking, where braising in salsa achieves a spectacular result. First we sauté the salsa ingredients, then we blend them to make a sauce. That sauce is then added to the browned meat and then everything cooks gently together. The end result is worthy of a weekend meal, but easy enough to make on a weeknight. You can serve this on crispy tostadas, or make a more substantial meal by adding rice and beans to the plate. Either way, your family will approve!

Cortadillo de Res con Repollo
Beef Stew with cabbage braised in tomato sauce

450g top sirloin, cut to ½” pieces
1 small onion, roughly chopped
3 Jalapeño chiles, stemmed and roughly chopped
3 roma tomatoes, roughly chopped
2/3 cup beef broth
4 cups very thinly sliced green cabbage
3 Tbsp vegetable oil, divided
1 tsp kosher salt, or to taste
¼ tsp freshly ground black pepper
¼ cup cilantro leaves, for garnish
Tostadas for serving

In large sauté pan heat 1 Tbsp oil over medium high heat. Cook onions and jalapeños for 2 minutes, or until softened. Add tomatoes and 1/2 tsp kosher salt and cook for 5 minutes, stirring every so often. Remove mixture to blender container and process until smooth. Reserve.

In same sauté pan, heat the other 2 Tbsp oil. Brown meat over medium high heat. Make sure it has a nice golden brown colour, it may take 5-10 minutes. Pour sauce over beef and turn heat down to simmer. Add chopped cabbage and bring to a boil. Cover pan and simmer for 25-30 minutes, or until meat and cabbage are tender, adding a bit of water if mixture becomes dry.

Correct seasoning and serve hot with corn tostadas. Garnish with fresh cilantro leaves.

Serves 4.

One bowl of goodness is Carne en su Jugo.

As the weather gets cooler in my part of the world, I crave warming, comforting food. And usually, what I crave first will be food from my beloved Mexico. This dish is a specialty of Guadalajara, Jalisco. When you think of it, it has the least imaginative name on the planet, but the dish itself is heavenly. Tender meat strips, simmered in brothy salsa are served alongside whole beans in their juice, and this makes the combination a delicious kind of “soup”.

In Guadalajara, Jalisco, back in the year 1965, there was a hot dog vendor named Juan José Galvez Ceballo, whose nickname was “el Gallo”. As the story goes, he was the one who invented this dish and started selling it to party-goers late at night. Soon, everyone forgot about his hot dogs and the beef in its juices became very much sought after. Nowadays, it is an iconic part of the gastronomy of Jalisco, and a trip to Guadalajara is not complete unless you try Carne en su Jugo in a restaurant or two.

The origins of this dish are very humble, simply a mix of meat and beans with their broth, garnished with bacon, onions and cilantro. Humble or not, this dish has evolved, and different cooks make it in slightly different ways, but the end result is always delicious.

I like to make mine with a rich beef broth to deepen the flavour of the meat, combined with a salsa made with tomatillos and tomatoes to add a touch of acidity. This balances the flavours and the end result is a perfect marriage of beans, meat and broth. Typical garnishes are chopped onion and cilantro, which is a favourite of all Mexicans, as well as avocado slices, grilled or pan-fried spring onions and tortillas. If you can, serve this dish in a clay bowl. Just like in Jalisco.

Carne en su Jugo
Beef in its own Juices

375g bacon, cut into ¼” slices crosswise
1 kg sirloin tip roast, cut into ¼” slices and then cut into thin 1” strips 
1 cup beef broth
6 small tomatillos, quartered
1 hothouse tomato, cut into chunks
1 small onion, cut into chunks
2 cloves garlic, peeled 
½ cup cilantro, chopped
1 tsp kosher salt, or to taste
6 cups cooked whole pinto beans in their broth

Garnish:
1 lime, cut into wedges
2 avocados, cut into slices
12 grilled or pan fried green onions
1 small onion, minced
1 cup salsa of your choice
½ cup chopped cilantro
Cooked bacon (see above)
Tortillas

In large Dutch oven, over medium heat, cook bacon, stirring until almost crispy, about 8 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon to paper towels and reserve for garnish. Remove all but 2 Tbsp bacon fat from pot and add meat all at once. Stir to coat in fat, reduce heat to medium low and cover pot for 5 minutes. This will make the meat release its juices. 

While meat is simmering, Place beef broth, tomatillos, tomato, onion, garlic, cilantro and salt in blender. Process until very smooth. Add this sauce to the meat and stir well. Let meat simmer, partially covered, for about 20 minutes, or until meat is tender. Correct seasonings.

In another saucepan, warm up the beans and broth. To serve, ladle 1 cup of beans and broth into a bowl. Add a ladle of meat and sauce to the same bowl. At the table, let your guests garnish with the reserved bacon, avocado, onion, cilantro, and salsa. Serve grilled onions and tortillas on the side. 

Serves 4-6.

Re-creating the food of my memories is always fun!

I grew up in Monterrey, Mexico, and one of my favourite regional specialties is called Carne Seca, which is a special kind of dried beef.  This is used to make several delicious dishes like Machacado con Huevo, a popular breakfast dish, or Caldillo de Res, a delicious meaty soup.

Why am I talking about beef if this recipe is about pork? Well, this recipe was born out of my craving for that caldillo that I ate many times in my hometown. I live in Canada, and unfortunately, our Customs department won't let any type of beef come into the country without special permits, and the couple of times I tried to bring back some carne seca - after declaring it - it was promptly confiscated. Imagine my frustration!

When a craving hits, nothing will do until it gets satisfied and this is where the pork comes in. 

The caldillos of my memories are made with finely shredded dried beef cooked in a rich broth flavored with tomatoes and chiles. A very simple dish, but full of flavor thanks to that dried beef. I decided to try and re-create that dish using fresh pork instead, and let me tell you, it turned out delicious!

Get your hands on a nice chunk of pork shoulder and cook that until the meat is very tender. Then shred it and use that as if it were carne seca. Then simmer that shredded pork in a salsa made of tomatillos, tomatoes, aromatics and chiles. The result is a very well rounded dish that will be homey and comforting on a cool Autumn evening.

As with many Mexican dishes, the garnishes form a very important part of the recipe, and in this case, the crema and avocado, along with the fiery piquín chiles just take the dish over the top.

Make a big batch of Caldillo de Puerco and get ready for a Mexican fiesta!

CALDILLO DE PUERCO
Pork Stew, Monterrey Style

Pork:
1.5 kg bone-in pork shoulder roast
8 cups cold water
1 large onion, cut in chunks
2 garlic cloves, peeled
1 tsp black peppercorns
2 bay leaves

Sauce:
1 ancho chile, seeded and de-veined
2-4 serrano or Jalapeño chiles
2 large tomatoes
8 tomatillos, husked and washed well
1 tsp kosher salt

To finish the dish:
1 Tbsp vegetable oil or lard
1 kg shredded pork (from roast)
2 medium onions, diced
3 garlic cloves, minced
1 tsp kosher salt, or to taste
½ tsp ground cumin
1 tsp Mexican oregano

Garnish:
Toasted piquín chiles
Avocado wedges
Crema
Lime wedges

In large stock pot, place pork roast, water, onion chunks, garlic cloves, black peppercorns and bay leaves. Turn heat to medium high and bring to a slow boil. Turn temperature down to simmer and cook, partially covered and skimming off foam periodically, for 2-3 hours, or until meat is very tender (this can be done in a slow cooker on low for 8 hours, or in a pressure cooker at high pressure, for 45 minutes).

Remove meat from broth and when it’s cooled down a bit, shred into small pieces, removing all fat. Strain broth, remove the fat and reserve 2 ½ cups for recipe (any leftover broth makes a great base for a soup).

Meanwhile, place seeded and de-veined ancho chile in a small bowl. Cover with boiling water and let sit for 15 minutes, or until it’s soft and pliable. Drain off soaking water and reserve.

On comal or foil-covered tray, place tomatoes, tomatillos and chiles. Broil for 10 minutes and turn vegetables over. Broil for another 5 minutes or until all vegetables are nicely charred.

In blender container, place rehydrated ancho chile and roasted tomatillos, tomatoes and chiles. Blend until smooth.

In Dutch oven heat vegetable oil or lard and cook onions over medium high heat for 5 minutes, or until translucent. Add garlic and cook another two minutes. Add sauce and bring to a boil. Turn temperature down to simmer and cook for 5 minutes. Add shredded pork, ground cumin, Mexican oregano and 2 ½ cups of pork broth. Simmer, stirring every so often, for 30-45 minutes. Adjust seasoning and add more salt if needed.

Serve hot with tortillas, toasted piquín chiles, avocado wedges and a drizzle of crema and a splash of lime juice.

Serves 6.

Clever use of leftovers make a delicious lazy dinner.

It is Friday night and I have had a long and crazy week. As a cook, the last thing I want is to come home and have to cook dinner. Some days I am just as happy to eat toast for dinner, I kid you not. That is the real life of a cook. I am pretty lucky that my kids have flown the coop and I live alone, so if I want to eat toast, I can do it without guilt.

Most of my life I have been one of those people that dislikes leftovers, but in the last few months of pandemic craziness I have come to appreciate the beauty of having food in the fridge, and food that I can just reheat rather than cook to feed myself a fairly decent - if not glamorous dinner.

So let me tell you about last night… I had little bits of leftover food - a bit of steak, a few spoonfuls of refried beans (I cannot bear to throw out food, even if it’s less than half a serving for anyone), that salsa I always have on hand, corn tortillas and some cheese.

In Mexico, when we make Carne Asada (our version of barbecue), the pit masters always place corn tortillas on the grill to crisp them up. Then they mound cheese on them and once it melts, they top them with chopped steak - these are called volcanes, and they make them for people that do not want to eat a whole steak, or let’s be real, they just taste delicious!

I made a version of those Volcanes last night with my little bits of leftovers. I am partial to corn tortillas, but I have to say, in Monterrey, where flour tortillas are beloved, some people use them instead for these. So go ahead and use what you have. After all, in pandemic times, we just roll with the punches and get creative with what we have on hand.

Next time you find yourself with leftover steak and beans, why don’t you make Volcanes! I am pretty sure you will love them as much as I do. Buen provecho!

Volcanes de Bistec
Grilled Steak Tostadas

Leftover steak (about 1 1/4 cup, minced)
1 tsp vegetable oil
3 corn tortillas
Leftover refried beans (about 1/3 cup)
Shredded Monterey Jack, Havarti, Mozzarella or Oaxaca cheese (about 2/3 cup)
Salsa of your choice
Thinly sliced onion for garnish (about 1/4 cup)
Cilantro leaves for garnish
Sliced avocado or guacamole for garnish (optional)

Place tortillas on griddle over medium low heat and let them crisp up as you flip them every few minutes. They should be completely crispy.

Meanwhile, in medium frying pan, heat oil and cook steak, only to reheat it, no need to get it crispy.
When tortillas are crispy, divide the refried beans among them.
Top with warm steak and then place shredded cheese over steak. Cover griddle (I use the same frying pan, upside down) to melt the cheese.

Once cheese is melted, top with your favourite salsa (or two kinds, as I often do) and garnish with onions and cilantro leaves. If you have avocado, or a bit of guacamole, it makes a great and delicious garnish as well.
Serve and enjoy immediately.

Makes 3 tostadas.

Enfrijoladas, those delicious bean bathed tortillas.

Have you ever tried Enfrijoladas? Maybe not as common north of the border, but they are absolutely delicious! I grew up eating them and they were always a treat when my Nana made them for us.

Enfrijoladas embody the three most iconic Mexican foods: corn tortillas, beans and salsa. Those three ingredients have been the food of all Mexicans for EVER, and we never get tired of eating them! Clever Mexican cooks have been spinning these three ingredients to create new dishes for a long time, and this is one example of a delicious combination.

We could easily group Enfrijoladas with the Enchilada bunch. After all, Enchiladas is a “group” of dishes that mean tortillas are covered in some sort of sauce and filled with an assortment of fillings. The most famous Enchiladas are Enchiladas Rojas, covered in red chile sauce, or the green Enchiladas Suizas, covered in tomatillo sauce. But then there are Papadzules, which boast a delicious pumpkin seed sauce, Enmoladas, covered in dark mole sauce and of course Enfrijoladas, covered in bean sauce (black or pinto). So you get the picture… it’s a corn tortilla (never wheat flour please!), covered in some sort of sauce, usually filled, but sometimes not, as with our Enfrijoladas.

Now… let’s get to the nitty gritty. When I went to Oaxaca, I ate some VERY GOOD enfrijoladas… and those were made with black turtle beans. Many people consider the real authentic enfrijoladas to be made with black beans, but I can argue that it all depends on the region you are in. In Northern Mexico, where I’m from, it was more traditional to make these with pinto or bayo beans, so let’s just say you can make these with any beans you have available where you are. The method will be the same and the outcome will be just as delicious. One thing to note: the traditional flavouring of these Enfrijoladas is dried avocado leaf. If you have never tried them, they give the dish a mild aniseed tone, like a very mild liquorice. It is not absolutely necessary that you have it, but if you can find the ingredient, please try it. It goes especially well with black beans but works with other beans as well. Just crumble the leaf into the blender and it will flavour your beans beautifully.

The bean sauce should be perfectly smooth - we don’t want any texture here, so a blender is absolutely necessary for this dish. Then you will cook the sauce in lard (or vegetable oil if you don’t have lard). I know, 1/4 cup seems like a ton of fat, but trust me, it makes the sauce so much more flavourful! If you must skimp on it, go ahead, your sauce will still be good. Simmer it gently stirring often, as you don't want it to stick to the bottom of the pan. The sauce should be thick enough to coat the back of a spoon (what in chef’s lingo is called “nappé”). Once you’re there, keep it warm while you prep your tortillas. If your sauce thickens too much while you’re doing this, just thin it out with a bit of water.

To make the tortillas, heat a bit of oil in a saucepan or comal and soft-fry the tortillas one by one - you are just looking to make them soft and pliable, not crispy, so be careful with this. Remove them to a paper lined plate as you finish all the tortillas.

Once the tortillas are fried, proceed to the bean part. I have given you two methods - one is the easy one and one is the traditional one. Sometimes, when I’m short on time I will do it the easy way, but I do prefer the traditional way as it gives you way more sauce!

As with many Mexican dishes, garnishes are a big part of the deal, and these Enfrijoladas are no exception. As if the flavourful beans are not enough, these get crowned with crumbled chorizo, cotija (or feta) cheese, crema, salsa and cilantro leaves. I like to serve them with some avocado. 
A work of art indeed! I hope you make these and Buen Provecho!

ENFRIJOLADAS
Tortillas bathed in bean sauce

3 cups cooked or canned pinto or black turtle beans plus 2-3 cups bean broth or water
1-2 dried avocado leaves (optional)
Salt to taste
¼ cup lard or vegetable oil
12 Corn tortillas 

Garnish:
2/3 cup raw Mexican chorizo, cooked (optional but delicious)
1 small onion, cut into thin julienne
Cotija or Feta cheese (crumbled)
Mexican Crema (or sour cream thinned out with a bit of milk)
Cilantro leaves for garnish
Salsa of your choice

Place beans with bean broth or water and avocado leaves in blender container and process until very smooth. If necessary, add more broth or water to make the mixture blend easy. The sauce should be thick, but easily pourable. 

In large saucepan, heat lard. Pour in bean puree and simmer over medium low heat until bubbly. Add salt if needed. Sauce should be thick enough so that it coats the back of a spoon – if it thickens too much, thin with a bit of  water.

In shallow frying pan or griddle, heat up 2 Tbsp vegetable oil. Soft fry tortillas on both sides until they are coated with oil and heated through, but not crispy, about 1 minute. If you need more oil, add as you need it. Place tortillas on a plate lined with paper towels. Repeat until all tortillas are fried and keep warm.

To plate the Enfrijoladas, there is a couple of ways to do this:

Method 1: (the fastest way) fold 2-3 soft-fried tortillas onto a plate. Once you have them on the plate, cover them completely with bean sauce. Garnish. 

Method 2: (the traditional way) dip the soft-fried tortillas, one by one, into the bean sauce and then place them on a plate – you can place them flat, folded in half or in quarters.

Top with cooked chorizo, onion, cheese and crema. Garnish with cilantro leaves and serve with your favourite salsa.

Serves 4-6.

Corn... that amazing food.

Mexico’s most iconic food is maize, or corn. It is the ONE food that is part of our identity - We Are the People of the Corn. It may be hard to understand this concept, but think of this: corn comes from Teocintle, a type of wild grass native to Mexico and Central America. Our native ancestors domesticated this plant and over time, it evolved into what we now know as corn. It is pretty amazing if you stop and think of that.

Ancient Mexicans also discovered nixtamalization, which is the process of cooking dried corn with calcium oxide (lime), letting it sit for 24 hours, then rinsing and grinding it to make Masa. This process makes it easy for the tough outer skin of the kernels to be removed, but most importantly, it changes the amino acids of the corn to make it nutritious. Without this process, the nutritional value of corn is very low, so at the base level, this is of huge importance when you are talking about a food that is a staple (when you eat tortillas and beans, you make a complete protein, and that has been the basis of the Mexican diet for centuries). Nixtamalization also makes it possible to make a smooth pliable dough that can be formed into tortillas, which is the Mexican’s daily and very beloved bread.

By now you are getting the idea that in Mexico we love all things corn. Tortillas and all the things you make with masa are at the centre of every day meals. Masa is used to make nutritious and hearty drinks like champurrado and atoles, and tamales would not exist without masa. So many things made with corn!

But not everything is made with masa…

We also LOVE corn in its fresh form! Corn in Mexico is not the same as corn in Canada or the USA. Our corn is starchy and not sweet at all, it is sturdier and a fabulous vehicle to savoury toppings. It is one of the most popular street snacks there is. You can find it on the cob, boiled or grilled, smeared with mayo and crema, then topped with cotija cheese and sprinkled with chile and lime. Or, if eating on the cob is not your thing, then it is cut off the cob and served in small glasses and topped the same way. This particular snack is one of the first things I eat when I land in Mexico every time I go back. It is so good you can’t even imagine it, and today I’m sharing with you our favourite way to eat it.

This is not really a recipe, but a way to prepare the cobs. Now is the best time of year to eat this as the farmer’s markets are still offering the freshest corn. You can make these with boiled corn or grilled corn, your choice. Both are equally delicious and I hope you try it. Buen provecho!

Elotes a la Mexicana
Corn, Mexican Style

Boiled or grilled corn cobs
Mayonnaise
Crema or sour cream
Crumbled cotija or feta cheese
Tajín, chile powder or Salsa! Chile Blend from Spicetionary
Sea salt to taste
Lime wedges

Brush warm cobs liberally with mayonnaise and crema. Place cotija or feta cheese on a plate and roll corn onto the cheese to make it adhere.
Sprinkle with chile and sea salt and drizzle with lime juice.

Salsa Negra, take two.

Almost two years ago, I met Rafa Rangel from Spicetionary. A chef friend had asked me if I could chat with him, as he was fairly new to Ottawa, was just getting started in his new business, and wanted to meet more people in the industry. 

We met for coffee and we immediately hit it off. Maybe it’s that Latino kinship (Rafa is from Venezuela), or the fact we speak the same language, but we became friends instantly and started talking about all things food and flavours. We were just about to start collaborating in cooking classes and events when Covid-19 hit. As everyone in the industry, we all had to think of different ways of working, reaching clients and doing business. 

I have been so fortunate that my day job is at a place that is considered an essential service, so I was never out of work, but my second line of business is doing something I really love - teaching cooking - and that, with covid, came to a grinding halt. I have to admit, with work being so busy I have not had much time to figure out the next steps for my classes, so when Rafa approached me and asked if we could do an online class together, I jumped at the opportunity! He is very hands on and technology savvy, so I have learned a lot from him as I prepare myself for online teaching. So, stay tuned on that front! The Cultural Kitchen will be teaching online soon!

But back to Rafa… in one of our many conversations, we talked about dried chiles, so Rafa made a spectacular chile blend that I have used in this Salsa recipe. That blend was loosely based in the mix of chiles I use for one of my favourite salsas - Salsa Negra, a complex, deeply flavoured salsa from Oaxaca, made by roasting tomatillos, onions, garlic and dried chiles (you can find that recipe here, in the blog). But the blend is not only for salsas, it can be used in any dish where you want to add that deep, smoky, spicy flavour (and colour!). Think tortilla soup, beef stew, chili con carne, BBQ ribs and chicken, etc, etc, etc!!

Now, if you have taken any of my classes, you have heard me say you can make salsa in a thousand different ways, and that is so true! This recipe, is as easy as it gets. Blend vegetables, cook with a bit of oil, add chile blend and season and that’s it! Easy and quick! If you cannot find tomatillos, make the salsa using only tomatoes, but instead of two, use 3 tomatoes.

Rafa and I did our first online class last week and we made Steak Tacos with this Salsa Negra. Our students said they were the best tacos they ever had! Nothing makes me happier than that. I will post the recipe for the tacos soon, but in the meantime, here is the salsa so you can give it a try! You can find Rafa’s Salsa! chile blend at www.spicetionary.com.

Salsa Negra al estilo Spicetionary
Black Salsa, Spicetionary Style

2 vine tomatoes, chopped
8 small tomatillos, chopped (about 1 cup)
1 small piece onion, chopped (about 1/4 cup)
1 garlic clove, peeled and roughly chopped
1/2 tsp sea salt, or more to taste
1 tsp vegetable oil
1 Tbsp Spicetionary Salsa! chile blend

Place tomatoes, tomatillos, onion, garlic and salt in blender container. Blend until fairly smooth but with a bit of texture.
In medium saucepan, heat oil and add blended vegetables. Bring to a slow boil and cook for about 5 minutes, until you see the salsa change colour and become a deeper red.
Add spice blend and cook for another 5 minutes, or until salsa has thickened.
Correct seasoning and enjoy!

Makes about 1 1/2 cups.

Every day is Taco Day!

Tacos are a centuries-old tradition in Mexico. They are part of every meal, every day - be it breakfast, lunch or dinner. Tacos are a way to eat our meals, filling in for bread in most households.

Tacos can be made of myriad fillings, for the meat lovers to the vegetarians. Depending on the filling, you can happily make a whole day’s meals out of tacos. Eggs and beans for breakfast, meat for lunch and cheese for dinner. And don’t forget the salsa.

Jamaica, or hibiscus, is a very popular drink in Mexico, tangy and full of antioxidants, the pretty purple agua fresca is not only easy to make, but good for you.  When you make Jamaica agua fresca, you have leftover hibiscus flowers, and that’s when this recipe comes into play. Tacos de Jamaica are not very common overall, but they are so with vegetarians.

This is the ultimate frugal recipe! Make a pitcher of Agua de Jamaica and then use the leftover flowers to make tacos. This indeed talks to my Mexican soul - and the philosophy of never wasting anything, as my Nana always says.

These unusual tacos are delicious and indescribably satisfying. So much so that you will not even remember your meal has no meat. The texture of the hibiscus flowers in the mixture is oddly reminiscent of meaty fibre and has a chewy texture that tricks your mind into thinking your are eating something more substantial than flowers.

Tacos de Jamaica are made with what I call the Mexican trinity - a sauté of tomatoes, onions and chiles. Add some garlic and cilantro and you will have a perfectly flavorful mixture for your tacos. Add some cheese to your tortilla first, and you have a Jamaica Quesadilla.

Either way, serve your tacos with mashed avocado or guacamole and your favorite salsa. Vegetarian dinner never tasted this good!

TACOS DE FLOR DE JAMAICA
Hibiscus Flower Tacos

2 cups hibiscus flowers
1 Tbsp olive oil or vegetable oil
1 clove garlic, minced
1 small onion, chopped
1 small Jalapeño or Serrano chile, minced
1 plum tomato, diced
¼ cup cilantro leaves, chopped
Salt to taste
Tortillas to make tacos
Salsa of your choice
Guacamole

In a 2 litre saucepan bring 1 litre water to a boil. Place hibiscus flowers in water and simmer for 10 minutes. Strain and reserve hibiscus flowers. Use liquid to make Hibiscus Tea, sweetened to taste.

In a medium frying pan, heat 2 Tbsp olive oil. Add onion and sauté until translucent, about 2 minutes. Add garlic and chiles and cook 1 minute. Add chopped tomato and cook another 5 minutes, until tomato breaks down.

Add hibiscus and continue cooking until hibiscus starts to get crispy and golden. Season to taste with salt.
Serve with hot tortillas, your favorite salsa and guacamole.

* If desired, the cooked mixture can be put in a quesadilla.

Serves 4.